Ultimate California Wine Blog

From the delight of a personal invitation, I was honored to visit and sit down with Jason Passalacqua at his Dry Creek winery. He has the enigma of being a relative newcomer on the block with his winery, but also having  four generations of history on which to build his business. Sound confusing? Not really…

Jason is a local, having grown up in a family that was making wine as early as 1930. His parents were growing grapes and, like most upstart kids not wanting to be in the family business, Jason dashed off to earn his own way in the Silicon Valley during the dot-com boom. But family and friends and a desire for a slower life brought him back home and in November of 2003 he purchased the historic Pezzi King Winery putting his own name on the shingle (now I have to investigate where Pezzi King moved to…). He and his wife, Noelle, spent several months making it their own and in March of 2004, Passalacqua Winery was officially born.

The winery has a lot of great things going for it. Outside, there is an enclave of picnic tables, some under private arbors, others on a wooden deck adjacent to the tasting room. Fountains and cobblestone pathways intersect herb and flower-bedecked trellises. Because of the slight hillside on which the estate lies (apparently the only one in the valley!), a unique vantage point of meandering vineyards is the view from these alluring grounds.

The newly decorated tasting room has been repainted in lighter more inviting tones than the darker, more maudlin colors which existed when Pezzi King was in residence. Regarding the wine’s availability, herein lies another remarkable difference; the wine is only obtainable at the estate itself or through its wine club — it is not distributed whatsoever. At a production level of 4,000 to 5,000 cases and with a great following, many of the wines are already sold out. There is no charge to taste in the main room, but a private back room is under development which Jason informs may include some light fare along the lines of cheese or tapenade to pair with the wine for a modest fee.

2003 Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc – Light and clear, an initial aroma of lemon and cream tantalizes with a hint of sweetness (undoubtedly from the Muscat clone from which the vine is grown). Bright, floral qualities show easily upon the mouth entry but blossomed to a fresh herbal grass with elements of the elegant Japanese shiso leaf. $15.00

2004 Chardonnay – An unreleased wine which I was privileged to taste. 30% malo fermented in 25% new American oak shows sweet fruit in a Sauvignon Blanc style, producing a modicum of cat pea aroma (which I have never minded). Dried floral in aromas and taste, accentuated with a crisp, teasing finish. Not yet priced.

2002 Dry Creek Valley "Old Vine" Zinfandel – From vines that average 70 years old, this wine saw 25% new French oak and was clear and medium ruby in color. I was initially astonished by the floral tones of dried lavender and heather which were matrixed with spicy black pepper and dark fruit. A jammy entry showed both some of the dustiness of the heather but also heightened spice, especially in the mid-palate. Long, even finish with a touch of wood. $29.00

2003 Sonoma Valley Zinfandel – Made from both Russian River and Dry Creek fruit, this was another unreleased wine which showed light garnet in color. Enticing aroma of jammy plum, clove, and a hint of eucalyptus. Even, moderate fruit flavor which demonstrated more even, dried floral qualities on the finish. No price yet available.

2002 Sonoma County Merlot – Much of this fruit was obtained from the Carneros region so it is no surprise that bright, distinguished cherry qualities are initially evident. These tones give way to well-integrated floral and dried twigs in the nose which mirrors in the mouthfeel of subtle smoothness. Elegant lavender and sweet herbs highlight the mid-palate and a hint of menthol reveals itself on the finish. $19.00

2002 Dry Creek Valley, "J.R. Passalacqua" Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark, purplish color shows initial qualities of dried twigs, dried flowers, and a hint of green bell pepper, all beneath a full showing of dark berry fruit. Black raspberry and cassis integrate with spice and cocoa in the mouth entry which subsides to reveal hints of lavender and heather. The balanced tannins finish in an enticing, dusty finish. $40.00

Passalacqua Winery ~ 3805 Lambert Bridge Road ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 877-825-5547

Lambert Bridge Winery is a minor anomoly in the Dry Creek appellation — in an area known for peppery, spicy Zinfandels and crisp, fruit-forward Chardonnays, Lambert Bridge’s mission is that of Merlot. They want to make the best Merlot possible.

Named after the historic Lambert trestle bridge which lies nearby, Lambert Bridge was initially started by Gerard Lambert in 1969. Gerard must have considered it divine providence to find such an estate as he was not remotely related to the C.L. Lambert after whom the bridge was named in 1920.

The current building is stunningly beautiful with private gardens and a dark wood-construction that is warm and inviting with its vine-covered entrance. The opening to the tasting room reveals a large, expansive bar set centre-stage in the room marked with vaulted ceilings and elegant darkwood. The tasting room staff are obviously enjoying themselves and their gregarious nature rubs off easily on the guests.

While surprisingly busy (by their account), the feeling of comraderie and ease is prevelant. No stress and no hard sell on the wine – just a relaxed, enjoyable atmosphere. Adjacent to the main tasting room is the Reserve Wines section, which is also their barrel room. Purposefully darkened, atmospheric candles were lit and placed amongst the barrels which added a touch of elegance.

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley – Aromatic with florals, some intriguing light citrus, and the faint hint of grass. Crisp entry stays fruit forward to the bright, acidic finish. $16.00

2003 Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley – Medium ruby color produces an easy, balanced Merlot-like fruitiness in the nose. Heightened mid-palate shows more fruit which diminishes to produce herbs on the tail end. $24.00

2002 Old Vine Cuvée, Bacchi Vineyards – 70% Zinfandel and 30% Petite Sirah with vines from 98-year-old vineyards from Limerick Lane in the Russian River Valley. Well-integrated red brambleberry and dried floral qualities predominate. Black pepper shows up in the mid-palate and combines well with red fruit to produce an even, velvety finish. $32.00

2002 Merlot, Sonoma County – I’m curious why the Merlot was poured after the Zinfandel, usually it is the other way around. I was then told this was their flagship, signature wine so it is best to pour last for showing purposes, but I somewhat question that decision. This Merlot shows classic Dry Creek terroir qualities of dried floral aromas, with well-integrated, medium-balanced fruit in the mouth. Slightly elevated tannins produced a dry mid-palate, but all-in-all, an easy drinking wine. $26.00

From The Reserve Room

2002 Syrah, Teldeschi Vineyards – Delightfully aromatic, showing dark, rich jammy fruit with some hints of minerality. Spicy and enticing flavors don’t dissapoint. $30.00

2002 Cabernet Franc, Jones Vineyards – Dark berry and mineral qualities are layered and evenly balanced. Medium in intensity and ripe spice produces a rich offering. $30.00

2001 Crane Creek Cuvée, Dry Creek Valley – A Bordeaux-blend comprised of 70% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% ‘other’ shows nice, integrated aromas of dark spice, brown toast, and then some surprising green bell pepper. The initial flavor was more green than I expected with brighter fruit flavors than the earlier dark aromas indicated. $50.00

Lambert Bridge Winery ~ 4085 West Dry Creek ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 800-975-0555

Dry Creek Vineyard was actually my very first stop in the acclaimed Dry Creek appellation. I had recently enjoyed a glass of their Fumé Blanc at a dinner and looked forward to tasting their whole line-up.

Arriving at the building, one is immediately drawn not only to the vine-covered rustic beauty, but also the leaded-glass sailboat motif which is repeated on most of the wine labels. Founder David S. Stare is an impassioned sailor and that love of sailing is evident throughout the estate.

The tasting room has a number of various model sailboats on display adjacent to the tasting bar. The staff were exceptionally pleasant and accommodating — learning that it was my first time in the area, several immediately pulled out local maps, offering recommendations, and making sure I would come back another time.

2004 Dry Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg – Clear and almost colorless, lemon predominates the aromas but subsides to produce hints of lime and grapefruit. Clean, balanced acidity with a tantalizing, crisp finish. $10.00

2003 Fumé Blanc – This is their flagship wine at 30,000 cases. Intensely clean and easy-drinking, this wine is a welcome respite to heavy chardonnays and overly sweet German wanna-be’s. Classic citrus with a creamy undercurrent thins a bit to show some minerality. $13.00

2002 Chardonnay – A 100% malo with nine months on both French and American oak, this is another easy-drinking, classically styled wine. Creamy with citrus hints of lemon and grapefruit, a mineral mid-palate shows surprising melon sweetness on the finish. $16.00

2003 Chardonnay, Russian River – Coming off the creamy lemon of the previous Chard, the Russian River offering shows decidedly more crisp green apple and brightness. This was being poured from a 350ml and is being sold for $8.25.

2002 Taylor’s Vineyard Chardonnay – Decidedly elegant teasing with both melon and mineral qualities in aroma and taste. Lively entry with a tang that excites. $22.00

2002 Merlot – Surprising aroma of menthol upfront, and then some integrated cinnamon and ripe bell pepper. Moderate fruit seem to fight with green olive flavors in the mouth. Time might help that. $18.00

2002 Heritage Zinfandel – Surprisingly light fruit aromas with green twigs and green bell pepper predominating. Pales on the finish. $15.00

2001 Beeson Ranch Zinfandel – Great fun in discovering chocolate-covered mint and a twiggy earthiness in the aromas. The chocolate re-appeared in the mouth but with a more concentrated flavor, pairing itself with dark cherries. Chewy and opulent, the finish showed more of the classic Dry Creek dustiness. $30.00

2002 Old Vine Zin – From 80 to 100 year-old vines, this is not slated to be released until August. Port-like jammy aromas produce velvety mint. Mint and dark cocoa surprise in the mouth with a dry finish behind the dark bramblefruit. $21.00

2001 Petite Sirah – Intensely dark purple with garnet tinges on the edge. Supple candy-shop aromas with layering of dark menthol and dried twigs and flowers. Jammy spice enters the mouth and the tannins overpower just a bit on the end. $19.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Green olive and dried lavender marry with the subtle brett qualities in the nose. A soft, Merlot-like fruit entry heightens with an exciting, spicy finish. $19.00

2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – Well-integrated green bell pepper and dried twig/floral qualities. A hint of brett on the back of the nose but all balanced. Soft entry does not disappoint as all flavors are even and complementary. $35.00

1999 Endeavor Cabernet – Aromas of jammy black brambleberry behind sweetish cocoa. Stunning layers of elegant dustiness with complex oak and balanced fruit. $55.00

Dry Creek Vineyard ~ 3770 Lambert Bridge Road ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 800-864-9463

Wandering around the Dry Creek appellation for the first time was quite illuminating with its stunning, low-rolling hills of luscious vineyards, hidden enclaves of wineries, and enchantingly kind locals. Having stumbled on both large and mid-sized wineries in Dry Creek, it was certainly a surprise to happen upon a small, precariously placed roadside sign with nothing other than a name and a phone number: Amphora Winery.

Hardly grandiose or inviting, and never being one to pass up an adventure, I turned down the long, unpaved road which lead I knew not where… Along the way, I was greeted by some workmen in the field and a dog who was determined to take a bite out of my car.

Persevering, I stumbled onto a mishmash of buildings, mostly old barn structures and seemingly abandoned cars. A small sign indicated I was in the right place, however it was questionable if I was at a storage facility or an actual tasting room.

Walking into the nearest barn, I found owner/winemaker Rick Hutchinson holding court in a barrel storage room, thief in hand, dispensing futures tastings and great jocularity. It seems I had actually found the tasting room – or at least one of the two tasting rooms, both barrel storage facilities. The formal "tasting room" is actually a few picnic tables seated outside, behind the big barn. From there, Rick talks about his history, his love of pottery (hence the name of his winery) and the actual amphorae he throws on his potter’s wheel.

During the brief time I was able to speak with Rick, in between his single-handedly hosting upwards of twenty guests, he spoke of the pride in which his wine is made: 90% of it is foot-crushed entirely with only the feet of women. He explained that it takes over 200 women each harvest to assist in these endeavors, but there is never a lack of willing muliebrity for the job (I even offered my own feet, but from the looks of the pictures which cover the walls, I am already twenty years too old.) Does it make a difference in the taste of the wine? Obviously only you can tell for yourself, but I’d like to believe I could taste the great pulchritude in the wine.

Futures – all with March, 2006 release dates, priced determined based on quantities purchased:

2004 Merlot, Mounts Vineyard – Easy, berry, opulent spice.

2004 Syrah, Mounts Vineyard – Perfumey and inky purple. Already smooth and accessible.

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Jacob’s Ridge – Fruity with cassis and black berry. Some hints of cocoa and dark chocolate.

2004 Petite Sirah, Mounts Vineyard – Astonishing aroma of dried fruit and dried floral which followed into the mouth entry.

2004 Zinfandel Port – Thick and enticing, spicy dark berry is already very smooth and approachable.

Current Release Wines:

2003 Zinfandel, Mounts Vineyard – Very intense and elegant dried floral aromas. Jammy, dark berry fruit with hints of black pepper on the finish. $24.00

2003 Syrah, Mounts Vineyard – Inky dark plum color with caramelized plum aroma and flavors. Teasings of blackberry with balanced dried flowers in the forefront and hints of menthol on the finish. $30.00

2003 Petite Sirah, Mounts Vineyard – Purple in color with dusty lavender and heather tones behind the chocolate-driven fruit. Chewy tannins with dried fruit filling the mouth. $30.00

Amphora Winery ~ 5540 West Dry Creek Road ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 707-431-0258