Ultimate California Wine Blog

Set off Highway 29, on a back road just south of Yountville, is a very unassuming winery, Havens. I had heard of Havens, but I had never had the opportunity to taste one and was honestly not even sure what they offered. A perusal of many of the wine sites I frequent came up mostly empty. I was intrigued and surprised.

Crouched under some very old, stately oak trees lies a cluster of buildings that make up the tasting room, winery, and quite possibly somebody’s living quarters. It is secluded and peaceful and sets the stage for an adventure.

I wandered in last Saturday and met Peter Robichaud who, now retired, mans the reception area on weekends. Far from a classical tasting room, the small reception area could scarcely hold six or eight people and the service area is a mere sidebar where the wines are poured. Much to his credit, Peter knows how well their intensely rich wines pair well with food and even though I was his only guest at the time, graciously prepared a small cheese plate which certainly enhanced the tasting and the experience. Gracious from beginning to last and a great experience in tasting some amazing wines:

2001 Merlot – 14 months on French oak. Bordeaux-style with 5% Cabernet Franc, this medium-bodied offering shows dark cherry and blackberry tones in the nose, heightened with faint dried heather. Well-integrated and easy to drink, the dusty heather makes for a smooth finish. $24.00

2000 Reserve Merlot – Made with mostly Carneros fruit, this juice spent 22 months in French oak. Initial green bell pepper gives way to lush, dark cherry. Smooth and smoky in the mouth, the balanced anise mid-palate intrigues. $32.00

2001 Bourriquot Red Wine, Napa Valley – 62% Cabernet Franc and 38% Merlot. "Bourriquot" translates to mean "stubborn mule" which is a perfect description of the wine; spicy and complex with roasted meat qualities in its aroma. Swirling provides earthy fruit and a mouth entry that is complex and a bit tannic that will mellow with time. $35.00

2001 Syrah Napa Valley – With 3% Viogner. Intensely dark purple greets with heady soy sauce and dark herbs. A bit tangy upon entry, mellows with a swallow or two. Complex and elegant, the smooth acidity is tantalizing as it keeps going to produce dark chocolate and dried cherries. Balanced and truly amazing. $24.00

2001 Syrah Hudson Vineyard – I thought the previous Syrah was good but this blew my socks off. Cherry and soy sauce on the initial smell darkened to show smoked meat, roasted coffee, and black licorice. Like an intelligent, handsome man, this wine was complicated and juicy and one you want to grab onto and keep. $45.00

2000 Syrah Hudson Vineyard – It just keeps getting better and better with these Syrahs. Blackberry and raspberry liqueur that is poured over rare grilled meat. Tangibly chewy in its layers of flavor, the wine shows balanced minerals in the mid-palate and a sweeter licorice on the end. $45.00

2004 Abarino – Interesting that the tasting of some huge, over-the-top reds is finished with a fine, delicate white wine, but it works extremely well. The Abarino is perfumey with pear and white peach. A pale, clean yellow color shows some tropical fruit in the nose, but not cloyingly so. It teases with sweetness, but the entry is tangy with an exciting, crisp entry.

Havens ~ 2055 Hoffman Lane ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 707-261-2000

Koves-Newlan Vineyards and Winery proved to be another one of those delightful surprises that happen now and then when exploring the Napa Valley. It is so easy to get swept up glitz and glamor of the Big Names in Napa and a delightful exploration to chance upon a winery that has been around for 40-some-odd years that may have a tremendous following, but was otherwise unfamiliar to yours truly.

Located on the west side of Highway 29, there is a small frontage road called Solano Avenue. Tourists driving the 29 might even miss the wineries on that side because they lie off the main thoroughfare and actually take some maneuvering to get to. In the case of Koves-Newlan, there is a sign that is relatively visible amongst the vineyards, but even the buildings themselves are nestled amongst some elderly trees, providing shade and protection.

The tasting room is down a small flight of wooden stairs and is more a collection of displays and a small service table, all surrounded by massive layerings of filled barrels. This is a working winery and the tasting room is also the barrel storage area adjacent to the winemaker’s facilities.

On the day of my visit, one of the cellarworkers and aspiring winemaker, Tim Callahan, was manning the guest area. With lively blues as his background, he was informative on the wines and delightful in his presentation. I especially loved the story of the Late Harvest Riesling, but I’m getting ahead of myself…  Briefly, the Newlan Vineyards began in 1967 as many in the industry do; selling grapes to those who turned the agricultural product into world-class wine. Seeing how good their grapes really were, Newlan Winery began making their own wine in 1981. They changed names to Koves-Newlan in 1999 with the addition of the Sato family who owned Koves vineyard (not sure why they didn’t call the winery Sato-Newlan!). Now they are producing their own exceptional wine with their own high-quality grapes.

2002 Chardonnay, Napa Valley – Lean, clean lemon zest. Sweet with ease of taste versus actual sugar. A creamy finish is satisfying. $25.00

2002 Estate Pinot Noir, Napa Valley – Sexy and alluring. This was a wine I was contentedly happy to sit and smell. Dried rose petals and eucalyptus up front blossoms to show the complexity and depth of an expensive Japanese soy sauce and sweet & sour pickles (the kind given at a really good omakase meal). An enticing mineral finish. Adorable, enticing wine! $26.00

2002 Estate Merlot, Napa Valley – Dark cherry and hints of green bell pepper show on first whiff. Soft tannins and easy fruit with a dry mid-palate. $26.00

2001 Zinfandel, Napa Valley – Jammy black plum and blackberry explode in the initial aroma. Taste include integrated spicy dark fruit that teases on the finish with toasted coconut. $25.00

2002 Cabernet Franc – Compressed dried twigs and dried eucalyptus leaves anticipate the dry entry. High tannins punctuate dark fruit in the mid-palate which brightens to show dried floral notes on the finish. $30.00

2002 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – Approximately 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Concentrated purple in color with extracted dried leaves and flowers compressed behind dark blackberry. $35.00

2000 Late Harvest White Riesling – I am told there is a secret to this wine. The winemaker who produced it passed away and there are no notes on its production. At 13.8% residual sugar, it is not nearly as syrupy as others I have tasted. Hints of honey dance with orange blossoms in a bright bouquet. Balanced with even acidity, there is a touch of stone fruit and spice on the finish that adds layers of complexity. Very, very enticing wine. $30.00/375ml

NV Pandora’s Port – An extremely unusual port made via the Solera system (a process normally used in the production of fine aged sherries, whereby a modicum of young wine is added to older wine for consistent bottlings). There is a "little bit of everything" in the production of this port and some of the older wines date back to 1985. The name Pandora alludes to the mythical box which was opened and let lose the miseries of the world — except that in the myth, what remained for mankind was Hope. In the case of this wine, it is a lovely tawny color with sensual teases of brown sugar and depth with spice and complexity. Completely engaging and rapturous. $40.00/375ml

Koves-Newlan Vineyards & Winery ~ 5225 Solano Avenue ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 800-500-WINE

I had the mistaken impression that Andy Beckstoffer was the largest land owner of vineyards in the Napa Valley. A recent visit to Laird Family Estate Winery set that misconception to rest. Ken Laird and his wife, Gail, purchased their first piece of land (a prune orchard!) in Calistoga in 1970.

Now, 35 years later, the Lairds own over 2,500 acres of prime vineyard real estate. And for years and years, they only sold their grapes to other wineries. They didn’t actually start making their own wine with all this acquired grape wealth until 1998, when they broke ground to construct an amazing building at the doorway to the Napa Valley at the beginning of the Oak Knoll District.

The story is told that the architect actually had originally developed this complex for Quintessa, who ultimately went with a different design. Several years later, the plans were presented to Ken who modified them for his own needs. It is stunning and I’m sure a tour of the production facilities would show amazing technological feats for while Laird’s personal winery produces around 4,500 cases (only 1% of the grapes he actually grows), his estate acts as a Custom Crush facility for the dozens of other wineries he continues to sell to. But visiting Laird is to to witness the family’s accomplishments and taste their excellent wine:

2004 Cold Creek Ranch Pinot Grigio – Initial bouquet of orange blossom with a hint of white peaches.  A bright, zingy entry produces grapefruit that is smooth and easy to drink. $16.00

2002 Carneros Chardonnay – 100% malo. Ripe, blossomy orange blossoms integrate with honey suckle and vanilla to show intense elegance. A clear, pronounced entry displays darker, more integrated flavors of fig and caramel. $30.00

2001 Red hen Ranch Chardonnay – 100% malo fermented in 75% new French oak. Ripe white stone fruit layers with vanilla that is clear and crips. Butter shows up in the back-palate. $40.00

2001 Cold Creek Ranch Chardonnay, Carneros – 100% malo. Creamy and rich, dark dried apricot with roasted nuts. $40.00

2000 Carneros Merlot – With 10% to 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Initial aromas of dark cherry and earthy mushrooms with a hint of green bell pepper. Easy and smooth red fruit meet the mouth and expand to show herbal and spicy qualities with keep going. $40.00

2000 Suscol Ranch Merlot – Ripe red berries and plums with darker cassis greet the nose but subside to display hints of darker tobacco. A jammy, spicy mouth entry heightens with loganberry that continues to a long finish which remains a bit tight. $50.00

2000 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Clear garnet in color, bouquet of dark cherry and blackberry show jammy, plummy flavors that enters with spice but layers and integrates with deep earth. $40.00

2000 Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Ruby colors with brick tones on the edge, dark vanilla and blackberry excites the nose. A smooth, velvety entry is elegant and rich continuing the dark berry and finishing with brown sugar spice. $80.00

Laird Family Estate ~ 5055 Solano Avenue ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-257-0360

The idea of a "hidden treasure" in the Napa Valley is hard to justify, especially those on either the main drag of the 29 or on the Silverado Trail. There are too many vanity wineries with well-trained sales staff, stunningly decorated tasting rooms, and retail displays designed to part tasters with their cash. I have no compunction whatsoever in stating that Van Der Heyden STILL qualifies as a hidden treasure, for while it does lie on the Silverado Trail, the buildings and presentation of and by Andre Van Der Heyden is quite a treat.

A small cluster of buildings lies hidden from view behind the vineyards and sign on the street’s edge. The cluster is exactly that — signs direct guests underneath a temporary canopy to the tasting room which is little more than a trailer, barely able to hold more than eight or ten people. No frills and no glitz, on any given day all you will find is the diminutive personage of the larger-than-life Andre Van Der Heyden.

Andre came to California from Holland in 1963. After taking a home winemaking class in 1973, in 1977 he found a small piece of vineyard property just south of the Stags Leap District (before it was known as the Oak Knoll appellation) and opened his own winery. Still family owned and operated almost thirty years later, the character of its owner is more than worth a visit (but be prepared to listen closely — after telling his story so many times, he tends to speak very, very quickly!)

2001 Van Der Heyden Napa Valley Estate Chardonnay – 100% malo with 100 French oak for ten months. Sweet, mango aromas which enter the mouth with dark and buttery tones which gives way a tangy mid-palate and finishes with bright, mineral tones. $22.00

2001 Van Der Heyden Merlot – Deep, dark, and elegant Moroccan spices on the nose which anticipates the dark Cabernet Sauvignon-like entry into the mouth. Stunning with a long, heightened finish. $35.00

2000 Van Der Heyden Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Aged 43 months in French oak! Intensely rich, dark nose of blackberry and chocolate-covered cherry aromas. Soft entry into the mouth with an extended, toasty vanilla finish. $50.00

2001 Van Der Heyden Estate Late Harvest Cabernet Sauvignon – "The only winery in the world producing a Late Harvest Cab! Harvested in 2001, to be bottled in 2005, 34 months in French oak." I was very fortunate to stumble into Van Der Heyden just as this amazing wine was bottled. There is a misnomer that all late-harvest wines are overtly sweet and while this wine has 5% residual sugar, I did not anticipate the dark, layered complexity of this wine. There was the meatiness of a Cabernet and the hint of sweetness from the late-harvest qualities gave the wine a characteristic of BBQ meat. I drove away simply thinking, "it was grilled BBQ in a glass." Truly astonishing. $50.00/375ml

NV White Table Wine – Only the fourth time having been made, this wine is a blend of Late Harvest Semillon, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of green apple and citrus almost contradict the rich, creamy entry. While slightly syrupy in consistency, it is not sickly sweet with a crisp, dry finish. $18.00

Van Der Heyden Vineyards ~ 4057 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 800-948-WINE

As one begins the drive up the Silverado Trail out of Napa, the very first winery that can be visited is Luna Vineyards. The facilities and reception area are lovely — a large, free-standing bar is the focal point for the tasting area with retail options scattered around. While there, make a point of asking about the tower. While tasting on a bright, sunny afternoon, we were invited to take our classes and ascend up to the viewing tower which provides a fabulous view of the neighboring vineyards.

The emphasis at Luna is on Italian varietals and their winemaker, Mike Drash (formerly of Far Niente) has helped Luna produce a very respectable collection of wines. It was a quiet day and I was able to taste through their entire book, much of which I greatly admired:

2003 Estate Pinot Grigio – Light, bright honeysuckle nose. While there was an immediate crispness on the entry, a rich, creamy mid-palate of peach gave way to a delightfully long finish.

2003 Tocai Friulano – A grape which I am unfamiliar with, but hope to taste more of. Apparently this is farmed from the Vista Verde Vineyard near Monterey. A rich, guava-like scent anticipated the tropical fruit mouthfeel.

2002 Reserve White Wine – 52% Pinot Grigio, 29% Tokay, and 19% Sauvignon Blanc. Well-balanced acidity in with aromas of roasted nuts.

2002 Sangiovese – Actually a blend of 84% Sangiovese with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot, and 3% Syrah. Very nice earthy aroma with spicy overtones. Full, jammy mid-palate with a leathery finish.

1999 Sangiovese Riserva – This is a fabulous wine – very nice, ruby color. Roasted berry aromas with a hint of anise. Very even tannic structure and rich, full finish.

2002 Sangiovese Riserva – This wine is 100% vineyard-designate. Considerably younger than it’s 1999 cousin, I suspect it will age gracefully. A bit more earthiness on the nose and much bigger tannins.

2001 Merlot – Remarkably young with green bell pepper aromas. Dark earthy mouthfeel that is more chewy than I would have liked.

2002 Bordeaux Blend – 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, and 7% Sangiovese. Shockingly young-tasting wine. Elegant spicy nose with hints of clove. Thin entry in the mouth and acidic finish. Needs more time.

2000 Canto – This wine was a complex blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah (although I failed to get the exact proportions). I was immediately struck by the sweet nose of anise.  The mid-palate was a tad green and young, but finished with very round, full minerally fruit. Quite lovely.

2001 Mille Baci; Late Harvest Pinot Grigio – Rich, complex dried stonefruit filled my mouth. This wine is not fortified, but picked at 37 brix and finished out at 16.5 residual sugar. Would love to try a glass with Roquefort cheese.

Luna Vineyards ~ 2921 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-255-2474