Ultimate California Wine Blog

One of the very last wineries I hit while perusing the Russian River Wine Road was Suncé. What I am beginning to learn is that there are a TON of wineries out there that I have never heard of, Suncé included. Just because I’ve never heard of it doesn’t mean anything, because obviously a LOT of folks have — they were packed and the party was going strong!

It is owned and operated by Frane and Janae Franicevic are Croatian in heritage as Suncé means "sun" and Dr. Frane Franicevic comes from a family that has a centuries-old winemaking heritage. And what a bright and shiny place this is, too!  Their tasting room is a small building nestled behind another set of buildings which I assume to be either their home or the winemaking facilities (or both!). The Franicevics have only owned the winery since 1998 (when it was known as One World Winery).

On the day of my visit, eight different barrels were set up for tasting outside under a tent (where there was also a huge bounty of edibles also being offered). The tasting room was jammed packed and behind the tasting building, a small ‘blind’ tasting was being offered to see if guests could guess the varietal! I tasted as much as I could from both barrels and bottles, but couldn’t nearly get through all that was offered! Seeing how much there was to drink, I tried to stick to the more unusual offerings and would like to go back as the winery makes four different Pinots as well as Italian, Rhone, and Bordeaux varietals.

FROM THE BARRELS

2004 Zora’s Estate Pinot Noir – Elegant spice that included cinnamon and nutmeg. Cherry entry that was tight upon initial taste and slightly acidic finish. Estimated price on release: $44

2004 Barbera – Fruit forward and ripe. Effervescent entry with a concentrated cherry and berry flavor. Estimated price on release: $25.

2004 North Coast Malbec – Extremely elegant clove and cinnamon spicy aromas. Hugh fruit entry gives way to dry, long-lasting finish. Estimated price on release: $34

2004 Russian River Hedin Vineyard Merlot – Young cherry and berry and a tad too bright to anticipate where this wine might be going. Estimated price on release: $35

FROM THE BOTTLES

2003 North Coast Barbera, St. Olof Vineyard – Bright, young cherry bouquer. Dry entry and a tight finish. $35

2003 Zemja’s Blend Nebbiolo/Barbera – 50/50 blend. Odd aromas of medicinal-like hospital space. Tight and rather acidic.

2003 Field of Dreams Syrah – Huge, dark fruit bouquet. Elegant and spicy which turned candy-like. Great, opulent nose didn’t deny the dark, opulent mouthfeel. $26

2002 Russian River Valley Les Trois Amis – A Super-Tuscan blend of 55% Sangiovese, 35% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet. A hint of green bell pepper gave way to balanced, exceptional layers of brambleberry. Great acids and structured finish. $65

2002 Sweet Zora, Syrah Port – Inky color. Sweet, sweet spice but not much depth. $20

Suncé Winery – 1839 Olivet Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95401 ~ 707-526-9463

DeLoach is another in a long line of wineries with a well-known name. And, like many others, an established name I had yet to taste. It is a winery that has been around since the 1970s — not something many wineries can lay claim to. This was a continuation of the open barrel Wine Road weekend tasting of the Russian River Valley.

One of the very charming elements of DeLoach for me was the physical building which is dark and slightly mysterious with shake roof and gated entries. The entry way is very much like a Japanese zen garden. Upon your entry is a Tanuki which is a raccoon/dog-like animal (much like a badger) who has much mythology surrounding him, most of which involve his jovial demeanor. He is seen in Japan mostly around drinking taverns and has been called The God of Drinking (mostly sake, but wine works just fine here).

Their wine offerings are extensive with a number of vintages available of Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a single vintage of Merlot. I found it quite admirable that multiple vintages are still available to taste as well as for sale. Many wineries library their older vintages to be sold at a later date for a higher price. It is extremely informative to be able to taste a number of years of the same wine in one tasting.

BARREL SAMPLES

2004 Pinot Noir, Clone 5, Russian River Valley – Bright, candy raspberry aromas. Effervescent upon entry and extremely fruit forward. Cherry mid palate gives way to a long, bright finish. Not yet priced.

2004 Estate Pinot Noir – Initial aroma and taste of a hint of green fruit subsides to produce a young berry and some cinnamon in the finish. More candy in the mid-palate. Not yet priced.

2004 Pinot Noir, Clone 667, Russian River Valley – Darker color and tone with layered, spicy aromas. Silky entry with an elegant balance. The dark, velvety finish continues but is punctuated with a bright note. Not yet priced.

2004 Pinot Noir, Clone 777, Russian River Valley – Thin, strident bouquet does not prepare for the candy-like mouth entry which turns dark and rich with blackberry and raspberry. Spicy, layered finish. Not yet priced.

FROM THE LIBRARY BOTTLES

1999 Gewurztraminer – Tropical fruit and peach aromas anticipate the sweet, full apricot and bubblegum tastes. Full entry and spicy finish are a bit sweeter than I normally like. There were no tech sheets available, but I would anticipate this wine having a residual sugar higher than 1%.

2000 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley – Pale color. Vegetal aromas. Limp entry.

1999 Estate Chardonnay, Russian River Olivet Ranch – Corked (but was being poured anyway).

2000 Estate Chardonnay, Russian River OFS (Our Finest Selection) – Too much asparagus noise and thin entry.

1999 Sangiovese, Los Amigos – Dark berry color with a hint of green bell pepper nose. Complex tastes of candied licorice, black pepper, and spiced anise. The spicy entry subsides a bit to reveal fruit at the end.

2000 Estate Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley – A bit murky orange in color. Spicy nose with a sharp entry mellows considerably to produce even fruit.

FROM THE TASTING ROOM

2001 Pinot Noir Estate – Strawberry and raspberry aromas anticipate the full, opulent entry. Spicy finish with a hint of vanilla. $18.00

2002 Pinot Noir Estate – Strong oak bouquet which subsides to produce some floral notes of rose. Thin entry rounds out more than I would have anticipated with a very dry finish. $18.00

2002 Pinot Noir O.F.S. – Perfumey, sweet overtones entice. Layered entry that includes black cherry and a tight finish. $30.00

1999 Port, Hook & Ladder – A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel, in the ruby style. Young cherry and berry is almost too sweet with a hot finish. $36.00

DeLoach Vineyards, Inc. ~ 1791 Olivet Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95401 ~ 707-526-9111

Martin Ray Winery was established in the 1940s and has a reputation for being one of the first wineries in California to produce vineyard-specific wines from his vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains. I stumbled on this winery while investigating the Russian River Wine Road and learned that it is now owned and operated by Courtney Benham. When I initially saw the sign, I assumed I was pulling down a road that held several different wineries. Only later did I discover that Martin Ray Winery is the parent company with a number of additional labels under their umbrella: Courtney Benham Wines, Angeline Wines, Mountain Wines, and Red (a jug wine).

Driving up to the winery, one is immediately taken with the extremely large, looming tower which bears the company name. As far was water towers go, it is pretty big and a great landmark for the winery. The actual tasting room lies back from the rest of the wine-making facilities and is pretty standard as far as buildings are concerned. Nothing flashy to set it apart. It is functional but I imagine that something is in store for the visitor area as the facilities were only just acquired by Benham in July of 2003 and upon my first visit, I had to fight smelling the wine through the fumes of the freshly-painted tasting room.

I love the history aspect of this winery — it was initially established in 1881 as the Twin Fir Winery and is set apart by being the oldest continually-operating winery in Sonoma (they got through Prohibition by selling sacramental wine to Rabbis)! The winery became Martini & Prati in 1902 and remained that way until Martin Ray acquired it in the 1940s. For their price point, the wines show great potential however I believe a second visit will be needed as the smell of paint truly interfered with a proper tasting.

2002 Courtney Benham Winery, Sauvignon Blanc – Tropical fruit aromas couple with the same fruit in the mouth. Gives way to a hint of lemon in the even, acidic finish. $12.00

2004 Angeline Winery, Mendocino County Gewurztraminer – At 4% residual sugar, this was a candy shop of aromas and flavors including grapefruit, passion fruit, and floral notes. $10.00

2002 Martin Ray Winery, Russian River Valley Chardonnay – Citrus highlights the entry of a balanced wine that ends with a creamy finish. $16.00

2001 Martin Ray Winery, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir – Orange and rather pale in color, some berry notes couple the toasted oak bouquet. Vanilla entry and layered fruit flavors finish with even more vanilla. $16.00

2002 Martin Ray Winery, Sonoma County Merlot – Black pepper and green bell pepper aromas somewhat overwhelm the hint of fruit underneath. Tight entry and pale finish. $16.00

2001 Angeline Winery, Paso Robles Syrah – Young, green fruit in the nose somewhat surprises the hefty, brambleberry mouth entry. The pale, uneven finish seems typical. $10.00

2000 Martin Ray Winery, Diamond Mountain Reserve Cabernet – Interesting that a Sonoma Winery’s best effort is from mountain fruit in Napa. A hint of green bell pepper aromas subsides to produce exotic Indian spices that would normally be found in Hindu temples. Soft, silky entry somewhat contradicts a heightened, peppery tannic finish. Give it ten years. $70.00

Martin Ray Wines ~ 2191 Laguna Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95401 ~ 707-823-2404

Driving around the wineries of the Russian River Valley can be a bit tricky — as opposed to the tourist-friendly Highway 29 in Napa, many of the Sonoma Wineries are not clumped together, clustered one after another like fine wooden soldiers. You have to hunt for them, driving down seemingly lonely residential roads. Battaglini Estate Winery is on such a road, barely marked with nary a painted line, I was unsure I was even go to find a winery… And there amongst houses and barns and abandoned farm equipment lay the markings of a winery. Nestled near an almost-falling dilapidated barn lies a cluster of small buildings which make up the tasting room, wine production facilities, and probably the very house where the owners live.

The estate has a lot going for it including historical vines dating back to the 1880s. The production is wholly and entirely Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Chardonnay — rather unusual for what is getting to be known as Pinot country. Having made wines since 1994, the Battaglini family is close knit with father, "Joe," operating with wife, Lucia, at his side. Children Giulio, Lidia, Paolo, and Dino make up the rest of the staff; Sales and Marketing, Customer Relations, Finance, and Operations, respectively.

FROM THE BARRELS
On the day of my visit, barrels were out for samples. Being the red lover that I am, I decided to forgo the Chardonnay samples and headed straight for the Petite Sirah and Zinfandel…

2003 Zinfandel Reserve – Jammy nose anticipates the mouth entry. Extremely dark purple presents all the dark berries in the mouth; blackberry, boysenberry, and raspberry. Spicy, peppery finish. Not yet priced.

2004 Zinfandel Reserve – Overtly raspberry nose which gives way to darker cocoa tastes. Dry ending. Not yet priced.

2003 Petite Sirah – So dark purple, it was almost blue. Incredibly exotic spice combination in its bouquet, already velvety and smooth. Fabulous potential which I will definitely go back for when bottled! Not yet priced.

2004 Petite Sirah – Green, almost unripe aromas with very tight, highly tannic flavors. Minty finish. Not yet priced.

FROM THE BOTTLES
1998 Twin Pines Estate Zinfandel – Surprisingly light color for a Zinfandel. Candy shop bouquet which subsided to reveal some green fruit. Even entry with a dry, cocoa finish. This wine, specifically, was from the 1885 vines. $25.00

2000 Battaglini Estate Zinfandel – Bright berry bouquet with a hint of candy. Tannic and bright finish with layered, tight finish. $25

2001 Battaglini Estate Zinfandel – Complex spice qualities in the nose; cinnamon, clove, nutmeg. Dark berry flavors surprise the entry as it tends towards a brighter, dry finish. $25.00

2001 Late Harvest Chardonnay – Tropical fruit aromas subsided to produce a soapy smell, like Dove or something. Pale mid-palate and thin, soapy finish. $15.00

I was very sorry there were no bottles of Petite Sirah to sample on the day I was there!

Battaglini Estate Winery ~ 2948 Piner Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 707-578-4091

Siduri is the name of the Babylonian goddess of wine. It is also an exceptional Pinot Noir producer in the Russian River Valley. But I didn’t know until I visited their unassuming warehouse establishment that they produce more than Pinot. The first weekend in March is a free-for-all in the Russian River as over a hundred wineries open their doors and barrels for Wine Road — a rare opportunity to taste from the barrels of local producers.

Siduri was my first stop due to their well-earned reception. I did not anticipate tasting more offerings than I thought possible. My surprise was due partly to the fact that this winery is not located in the standard overly-decorated, architectural edifice, but in an industrial complex. Also, there isn’t just Siduri Wines, but Novy Family Wines. Siduri is the brainchild of Adam Siduri and his lovely wife, Dianna and Novy from Dianna’s family. Two labels, but one family producing fabulous wine.

THE BEGINNING

2004 Novy 4-Mile Creek Red Table Wine – A combination of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel, and Grenache. Immediate nose of manure and a harsh, acidic entry. $9.00

2002 Siduri Muirfield Vineyard Pinot Noir – From the Willamette Valley in Oregon. Young raspberry tones with a pale, thin entry and a mineral finish. $29

2003 Siduri Russian River Pinot Noir – From the Keefer Ranch and Sapphire Hill vineyards. Dark raspberry aromas. Herbal mid-palate. Tight finish. $19

2003 Siduri Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir – Initial aroma of minerals then dark, deep fruit. Slightly acidic in the mouth with goes away quickly but leaves a mineral finish. $34

2003 Siduri Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir – From the Santa Lucia Highlands. Rich brambleberry nose which anticipates an opulent mouth entry and that blossoms. Long, berry finish. $43

2003 Siduri Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir – Astounding complex, rich bouquet of dark berry. A hint of bright acid heightens the mid-palate and lingers before revealing a cocoa finish. $29

2003 Novy Sonoma County Syrah – Chewy cherry backs away to reveal some spice in the nose. Rich, dark berry reveals heady, balanced tones with a hint of mineral. Exceptional offering. $19

2003 Novy Christensen Family Vineyard Syrah – Dark, inky color produces equally dark and creamy bouquet which subsides to reveal a hint of green berry. Mouthfeel hints at some green berry but finishes with spice. $25

2002 Novy Alder Springs Vineyard Merlot – Berry beyond ripe! Port-like aromas of ripe brambleberry and blackberry. Shades of green olive in the mid-palate and some tight tannins are soon overshadowed with jammy, enticing spice. $19

2002 Novy Alder Springs Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – More jam, this time in the cherry and blackberry. Elegant spice of clove and cinnamon with full, layered fruit and balanced finish which includes more dark berry. $27

FROM THE BARRELS

2004 Novy Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Meunier – I have never tasted 100% PM and am used to it as a blending grape for sparkling, so I have no way of knowing what to expect. I was astonished at the initial chemical aromas. The entry into the mouth was sharp and acidic but produced a bright, long candy-like finish. Price upon bottling will be $25.

2004 Siduri Lewis Vineyard Pinot Noir – This was my very first taste of a Pinot from a barrel. I have tasted a lot of other wines from barrels, but never a Pinot, so I was a tad surprised how much of the toasted oak I could perceive. There were also huge candy-like bright fruit but a smooth, velvety finish. Price upon release will be $42

ADAMS TABLE

2003 Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir – From Garys’ and Pozoni vineyards. Dark, elegant raspberry with a soft entry and a long, spicy finish. $32

2003 Siduri Keefer Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir – Cinnamon spice and cranberry and raspberry fruit great the nose and anticipate a balanced, even taste. Spicy finish punctuates nicely. $52

2003 Siduri Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir – Classic raspberry bouquet. Tight entry opens in the mouth and blossoms. The finish tightens up a bit. $52

2003 Siduri Olivet Grange Vineyard Pinot Noir – Eucalyptus, anise, and berry aromas predict the full mouth feel and bright mid-palate. Huge, berry finish that keeps going. $34

2003 Siduri Amber Rose Pinot Noir – Named for their daughter, this is a very special and limited release made from seven different vineyards. I don’t know if Amber’s middle name was "Rose" when she was born, but it is not hard to dismiss the astonishing rose bouquet which was coupled with rich, layered berry tones. Extremeley balanced and elegant and unbeatable with long, floral finish. $65

2003 Novy Judge Framily Grenache – Bright, metallic aromas. Full, sweet entry suggests there might be residual sugar, but there is not! 17.4% alcohol, apparently these grapes were incredibly ripe upon harvest. The pale, orange color hardly presented me for the WOW factor of this amazing wine. I forgot to write specifics of character other than "wow." $25

2003 Novy Santa Lucia Highlands Syrah – Nag Champa spice entices the nose (for those unaware, Nag Champa is an incense burned in temples in India — a dark, elegant spice that includes scents of sandalwood, cinnamon, clove, jasmine, and more!). Gives way to white pepper and star anise. Long, ripe fruit and more huge spice fill the mouth.

Siduri Winery and Novy Family Family Wines ~ 980 Airway Court, Suite C ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95403 ~ 707-578-3882