Ultimate California Wine Blog

It is no surprise that many are entranced with the wine country for its inherent, illusive magical qualities. Is it the mere beverage being produced? The landscape? The architecture? What is it about the wine industry (for it IS an industry!) that promotes an aura of mystique? I suppose it is why I moved here — as a sort of spiritual quest, like Gawain searching for the Grail. I doubt a single piece of the puzzle will be found within the entirety of my blog, as I travel from winery to winery, but in visiting Hanzell, part of what I have been searching for has been found.

Locating Hanzell takes some work. After a side road is taken just outside of downtown Sonoma, a small, one-lane, unpaved road is driven until such time as you are convinced you have gone the wrong way. Then, after a gentle curve and the return of a modicum of pavement, an A-frame building makes itself known; majestic and regal, surrounded by vineyards.

Much of what makes Hanzell so magical is its phoenix-like history. The stunning building that invokes so much mystery was the cause for much trouble and consternation several years ago. Built in 1956 by the original owner, James D. Zellerbach, in 2003 the drains in the production area showed elevated levels of the
chemical TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole). You can see the drains in both the upper and lower section of this picture. In a move that shocked the industry, CEO and President, Jean Arnold, spent hundreds of thousands of dollars researching the problem, limited release on wines that had to potential for taint, and rebuilt the entire production area. What could have been the death knoll to the less stalwart, Arnold refused to give up and in moving forward, has brought Hanzell back with a vengeance.

A visit to Hanzell starts with a vineyard tour with Ben Sessions. He drove me around and showed me what made their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes unique, much having to do with their locale and the cool air flow up from San Pablo bay. Being situated at 850 elevation, their neighbors immediately to the east and to the north are blocked from that cool air flow. Following in Zellerbach’s Burgundian tradition, there is a still a belief in the sense of terroir.

After driving through the vineyards, we walked through the newly constructed caves, where a most astonishing light fixture illuminates the great room. An iron-wrapped barrel with alternate staves removed and hung upside-down, provides shadows and a continuation to the magical sense pervading the property.

An appointment-only winery, the tastings are held in the building that is now only used for storage of new and library wines, next to doors that open up upon an amazing view of the vista below and in plain site of those very drains that caused the winery’s rebirth.

2002 Hanzell Chardonnay – Initial sweet aromas of clean melon, pear, and apple with hints of minerality and warm kiwi. These are coupled in the flavors that excite and expand to show layered lemon zest and a graceful, enticing mouthfeel that teases to a clean, balanced finish. $55.00

2001 Hanzel Pinot Noir – Astounding ‘wow’ factor with dark, elegant berry playing alongside dusty, smooth mineral qualities. Dark, musky wild strawberries couples with textured, elegant leather and subtle spice in the mid-palate. One of the most Burgundian of California Pinots I have tasted, an earthy depth proves exceptional quality and ageability. $85.00

Hanzell Vineyards ~ 18596 Lomita Avenue ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~ 707-996-3860

Matanzas Creek has quite a reputation, but their reputation is for much more than their wine. Over 25 years ago, when founder Sandra MacIver was building her estate, she recalled the love of her grandmother’s gardens. Years later, when building their tasting room, Sandra and husband, Bill, met a landscape architect who planted six different gardens with over 4,500 lavender plants.

As the lavender is harvested in late June or early July, that is the most beautiful time of year to partake in the vast purpleness of Matanzas Creek. When you enter the estate, you not only drive past the vast acreage of lavender bushes, but alongside an amazing fountain which looks as though a single standing stone is balancing a precariously-placed stone lintel.

The tasting room is nestled and barely visible among some large, overgrown trees. There are benches available outside and as this is one of the few wineries on a long stretch through Bennett Valley, makes for a great bicycle stop and rest area.

The tasting room is appropriately bedecked with lavender items for sale, but also the entire aesthetic is in an Arts & Crafts sensibility to surroundings. The only downside of the surroundings in wine tasting, is that the bouquet of lavender permeates the area and makes for smelling wine a tad difficult.

2002 Sauvignon Blanc – Some soft touches of lemon tease at first but crisp, overt citrus presents itself in a full, blossomy mouthfeel. Ever so slightly creamy finish suggests this wine saw a bit of oak $20.00

2002 Chardonnay – Lemon peel and grapefruit with a luxury of cream surprise the nose. Clear pear and melon show in the mid-palate and a touch of fig on the finish exhilarates. $30.00

2002 Merlot – Red garnet in color, dried floral and dried twigs show immediately and then are tempered with a bit of dark plum. Berry and cocoa dance in the mouth with a dusty finish. $30.00

2001 Bennett Valley Merlot – Fruit-concentrated aromas show immediate dark cherry and blackberry with hints of spice. The flavors continue the dark fruit but balances with smoke and a finish of twigs and dried flowers. $60.00

2002 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Dried flowers and rich plum blossom in the nose. Dark, complex berry tones provide a concentrated mouthfeel with a hint of dusty, dried floral on the finish. $35.00

2002 Sonoma Valley Syrah – Extremely vibrant offering. Inky in color with hints of purple on the edge, dark barbecue meat and jammy fruit shows immediately in the nose. Soy sauce, orange peel, and blackberry liqueur variably displays in the flavors, and an accomplished, menthol finish does not disappoint. $25.00

Matanzas Creek ~ 6097 Bennett Valley Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95404 ~ 800-590-6464

Imagery touts itself as more than just a winery. It is no secret that I hold in high regard wineries that support the arts, but Benziger-owned Imagery goes far beyond simply supporting the arts; they call themselves "Estate Winery and Art Gallery." And what an art gallery it is – on the walls and on the bottles. Every single Imagery release has a decidedly unique, artist-designed label that must include an image or allusion to the Parthenon. On most winery websites, there are biographies of the owners and the winemaker. Here, there is also a biography of Bob Nugent, the curator of the continually growing exhibit which began with their first bottling in 1985. Nugent not only curates the in-house exhibit, but is an accomplished artist in his own right, and a tenured professor of art at local Sonoma State University.

It would be easy to continue to expound the virtues of Nugent and the art, but other factors need to be taken into consideration — like architecture and atmosphere. The building complex is appropriately moderne with some natural rock united with industrial siding reminiscent of any metropolitan city’s artist lofts. A garden, an instructional walkway, and alluring landscaping all comprise what awaits the visitor.

The sales area is not only filled with the expected retail items, but many artistically-befitting items which carry on the whimsical themes viewed throughout. The tasting bar is large, but does not impede the view to the number of galleries which lie behind it. The staff, even when deluged with customers, are gracious and helpful.

With all the accolades laid upon the visuals of Imagery, it is in due course that I should mention the wine. Imagery was started by Joe Benziger as a sister winery to his family’s larger endeavor, Benziger. As I have yet to blog the older sibling, I can only imagine that Imagery is the playful youngster; a place where Joe can have fun in his craft. I am only guessing, but it comes about from the interesting varietals that are found at Imagery – fun, intriguing, and with exception of a Cabernet Sauvignon (which I did not taste), not your grandfather’s wines:

2004 WOW Oui – An blend of Sauvignon Blanc with Muscat Canelli. An initial sweet smell confirms the Muscat grape but the overt grapefruit entry almost overwhelms. Some floral, but the grapefruit predominates. $24.00

2003 White Burgundy – A blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Blanc, and 10% Pinot Meunier produces a wine that is pale yellow in color with a combination of aromas of both pineapple and butter and hints of tropical fruit. A surprisingly sweet entry shows butterscotch but mostly it feels like a sugar-coated California Chardonnay while trying towards a French sensibility. $27.00

2002 Malbec – Initial jammy aromas subside to show more black pepper and tobacco. The muscular entry thins to produce plum and mineral. Exotic at first entry and muskier than most. $36.00

2002 Stone Dragon Syrah – Dark, purple/black to the very edge. Fully concentrated with roasted almond and mineral qualities in the nose. Huge and full in the mouth, the lingering aroma and chewy mouthfeel has a punch at the end showing great umph. $35.00

2002 Petite Sirah – Intensely concentrated and an almost solidly black wine. Dark jammy black raspberry and blackberry couple with clove and pepper. Exotic and erotic Middle Eastern spices in the finish including cardamom and sumac. $36.00

2003 Petite Sirah Port (500 mL) – Everything the 2002 has in flavors and aromas except concentrated into a syrupy liqueur lovliness accentuated with dried floral qualities behind the jamminess. Not just sex in a glass – this is complete copulation with orgasm. $32.00

Imagery Estate Winery and Art Gallery ~ 14335 Highway 12 ~ Glen Ellen ~ CA ~ 95442 ~ 877-550-4278

Arrowood Vineyards was started by Richard Arrowood in 1986 while he was making wines for Chateau St. Jean. In the beginning, it was just he and his wife, Alis Demers Arrowood, working alone. Richard didn’t just up and quit Chateau St. jean to start his own winery. For the first several years, it was Alis who worked the cellar, offered tours, and managed the business while Richard held down both jobs. Their first release was in 1988 and fame quickly followed.

Now, with over a dozen varietals offered through Arrowood’s tasting room, I should have actually listed them under six of Sonoma’s thirteen appellations, as their wines are made from Alexander Valley, Dry Creek, Knight’s Valley, Russian River, Carneros, and greater Sonoma vineyards. The large, gleaming white building complex shares an entrance way with Imagery Winery on the Sonoma Highway so I have blanketed them under the Sonoma Valley appellation.

Their tasting room is expansive and open with the bar area set in front of large, inviting windows which provides natural light that is warm and spacious. The staff are informed and helpful, especially with the obscure questions that tends to come from one such as I. While there are some of the expected offerings of Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet, I tried to keep my tasting geared more towards some of the unusual varietals:

2001 Pinot Blanc, Saralee’s Vineyard – Pale, straw colored has an initial aroma of sweet melon and kiwi. Easy and creamy in its entry, delicate pear that is elegant and smooth. $25.00

2002 Côte de Lune Blanc, Saralee’s Vineyard – An unusual blend of white Rhone varietals; Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier.  Astonishingly bright floral subsides to show some tropical fruit with hints of grapefruit underneath. Effervescent entry displays more of the floral qualities also reveals hints of minerality. $20.00

2004 Gewürztraminer, Saralee’s Vineyard – Alsatian styled with low residual sugar, there is a definite surprise at the complexity in floral, grapefruit, and sweet aromas. The mouth entry is easy and mirrors the floral qualities, but brightens to produce a bubble-gum finish. $20.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County – This wine spent 30 months in both French and American oak and was culled from 15 different vineyards. A modicum of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot is blended in to reveal layers of anise, black pepper, and green bell pepper behind the dark fruit. A cassis-dominated entry pairs with black licorice to show chew spice. Would love to taste again in ten or fifteen years. $45.00

2000 Syrah, Saralee’s Vineyard – Blended with 5% Viogner, purple and inky dark in color demonstrates black cherry, smoky spiced anise, and burnt grass. Spiced jammy entry continues in smokiness with hints of green bell pepper. $39.00

2000 Syrah, Sonoma Valley – Inky blackness in the glass transcends to ripe, blackberry liqueur with soy sauce. Perfumey and heady in its BBQ qualities that does not seem to end. $35.00

2003 Select Late Harvest White Riesling, Alexander Valley – Choosing grapes with Botrytis cinera, this lovely dessert wine is exceedingly clean with tones of light honey and bright, fresh orange blossoms. Easy and not overtly sweet, despite its 9.3% residual sugar. Lovely… $25.00

Arrowood ~ 14347 Sonoma Highway ~ Glen Ellen ~ CA ~ 95442 ~ 707-935-2600

If you like word games, than Navillus Birney has a great one for you to play with. Write the world Navillus on a piece of paper and hold it up in a mirror. Yep, Navillus is actually Sullivan in reverse. It seems that when Rick Sullivan and Jonelle Birney Sullivan started their winery back in 1998, they understandably wanted to put their name on their label. And they did so for several years, while their wines gained in fame and following. Little did they know that another Sullivan Vineyards, having made wine out of Napa for twenty-some years, would add a level of confusion between the two… They did the next best thing by keeping their name but reversing the letters.

While their actual wine-making facility is adjacent to their home on Sonoma Mountain Road, the Sullivans have made the heart of Glen Ellen in Sonoma home for their tasting room. They purchased the historic "Mercantile" building which was built in 1920 and the room is lovingly decorated with amazing displays of local historic celebrities, most notably, M.F.K. Fisher (whose own house was a mere two blocks away).

While only presenting two varietals (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir),
Navillus Birney has something special going for them; Rolando Herrera
as winemaker. I have written about Herrera in other blog entries as
well as other published articles and he is a winemaker whom I am
keeping an eye on for both future and present greatness.  Out-of-the way and definitely charming, Navillus Birney makes a perfect lunchtime stop as they are in a neighborhood of some exceptional hidden restaurants including The Fig Cafe and Glen Ellen Inn Restaurant.

2003 Sonoma Mt. Chardonnay - 100% malo shows classic kiwi, lemon, and grapefruit notes. Clear in its bright yellow color, a fruit-forward mouth entry has a tangy, bright finish. $30.00

2003 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay – 100% malo. Yellow in color that is almost fluorescent, effusive citrus in nose and flavor that blossoms to show lime and a finish of lemon peel. $30.00

2002 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir – Light garnet and slightly cloudy with orange tint on the edge. Initial aromas of earthy brett, dark herbs, and mushrooms with pale, cherry fruit. A slightly effervescent entry subsides to display anise in the mid-palate and perfumey finish of dried roses. $28.00

2002 Sonoma Mt. Pinot Noir, Katherine Vineyard – Ruby color throughout produces an earthy raspberry aroma with a tease of smoke. The entry is at first dusty with cocoa and clove spice, and brightens to show a heather floral finish. $34.00

Navillus Birney Winery & Vineyards ~ 13647 Arnold Drive ~ Glen Ellen ~ CA ~ 95442 ~ 707-933-8514