Archive for the ‘St. Helena’ Category

Beringer – 90

Monday, June 6th, 2005

Beringer_signBeringer is a landmark in the Napa Valley – architecturally it is a well-recognized building and it is a very well-known producer of wines. It is a fabulous location for both first-timers and seasoned professionals as there truly is something for everybody. Their claim of being the oldest continually operating winery in the Napa Valley. The drive up the perfectly-manicured landscaping is awe-inspiring, however one cannot escape the slight Disneyland-like atmosphere of having to go through a reception area where color-coded maps are presented due to the size of the estate.

Beringer_bldgThe map shows pathways to various spots throughout the estate and the different locations where wine can be tasted. There are two different locations for wine tasting; a section of the Old Stone Cellars where "every day drinkers" can tasted (I skipped this area), and the famous Rhine House, where the reserve wines area available for tasting. There are also a number of tours available; both self-guided and more formal guided tours.

Beringer_retail_areaThe reserve tasting room offers five different tasting options, all of which include three wines; a $15 Signature Series, a $16 Vineyard Showcase, an $8 Taste of Knights Valley, an $8 Anything But Cab, and a $5 Dessert Wine Selection. I did have a distinct advantage of being able to move around all these lists and pick-and-choose, but with 75 different wines being produced at Beringer (15 of which are Cabernet Sauvignon), an entire day of tasting could be devoted to going through their entire book of offerings.

2003 Sbragia Limited Release Chardonnay – 100% malo on 100% sur lees produces an intoxicating intense chardonnay. Layers of dried floral notes play with heady, complicated fruit that is ever so slightly smoky and simultaneously rich. Not yet released.

2002 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir – Candyshop raspberry aromas produced a rather acidic entry. Nice, in an easy-drinking sort of way, mostly bright red fruits and some velvet feel on the finish. $30.00

2001 Bancroft Ranch, Howell Mountain Merlot – With 4% Cabernet Franc, a deep, rich offering that would make one think it was a Cabernet Sauvignon from its intensity. Dark with black fruit and dusty cocoa in the aromas, the mouth entry showed the same darkness and a mid-palate of orange peel. $75.00

2000 Marston Vineyard Syrah – From Spring Mountain, this dark garnet-colored wine was an easy-drinking Syrah showing classic barbecue and rich soy sauce aromas. A leathery entry blossomed to display easy, well-developed spice and fruit. $35.00

2001 Diener Ranch Petite Sirah – From a Clear Lake vineyard, 26 months in oak. Inky purple in color that reveled in soy sauce, barbecue meat, and blackberry liqueur. A dry mid-palate showed higher tannins from youth, but the bright, engaging, and erotically finish anticipates a long, luxurious life. $35.00

1998 Quarry Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – From the Rutherford district, this (like most of their high-cabs), shows amazing up-front fruit that dark and elegant. Some vanilla on the mid-palate and a dustiness of cocoa on the finish makes it quintessential Rutherford. $75.00

1998 State Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – From the Yountville district, jammier than the Quarry and a tad spicier. Still opulent and rich, just a bit rounder in mouthfeel. $75.00

1998 Tre Colline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – From Howell Mountain, considerably more concentrated than the previous two presented. Rich in roasted fig and smoked spice, velvety to the very end. $75.00

2002 Nightingale – A Botrytis wine from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Dark golden in its honeyed color, it is rich with dark stone fruit and caramel flavors. $35.00/375ml

1998 Late Harvest Johannisberg Riesling – Also Botrytis-made, initial petroleum aromas are classically handled providing an intense candied orange peel and honey flavors. Almost a bit too syrupy in its mouthfeel, this would make an elegant after-dinner drink with cheese. $20.00/375ml

Casa Nuestra – 72

Saturday, May 7th, 2005

Cn_sign_1Casa Nuestra has so much going for it and the real surprise and shame was that I had never heard of it. Located on the Silverado Trail, sitting between the two stalwarts of Duckhorn and Rombauer. Entirely unassuming and set-back off the main road, driving down the unpaved dirt towards the cluster of small, wooden yellow buildings is actually a passage through a time machine — back to the 1960s.

Cn_bldgThe first indication that you are not in the 21st century, is the large, psychedelic peace sign hanging above the entrance. Of course, there is also the charming surprise of the unpretentiousness of the surroundings; goats, picnic tables, and very old, majestic trees.

Cn_fireplaceInside is a simple room with a fireplace, bedecked with posters. However, the posters are a dead giveaway again; Martin Luther King, concert posters, and more memorabilia from the psychedelic Age of Aquarius. The pouring staff, as well, seem to be a slight transplant from a more carefree age; engaging, happy, and extremely generous in their time and energy. In their jocularity, they easily relate the unpretentious, down-home philosophy of the owners: They are out to make good wine, not to pave the driveway and build a palatial mansion. And I have no doubt there would have been an opportunity to do so as they clearly own prime, valuable real estate which could have been mortgaged to build an edifice more in line with the neighborhood reputation.

Cn_tasting_room1The winery itself produces a limited amount of wine – 1,800 cases maximum. Surprisingly, here is yet another winery which has dispensed with the distribution system, meaning it can only be obtained through the winery itself. Not yet having advised anyone to join a wine club, a single offering through Casa Nuestra almost had me a member; a club-only blend entitled Tinto Classico.

Cn_goatsLastly, for visitors coming to the Napa Valley, a major plus for Casa Nuestra’s picnic tables and your dining neighbors, two Nubian goats Nava and Cross who will happily share your offerings. I had no food during the day of my visit, but both goats still romped over to have their picture taken!

2004 Dry Chenin Blanc, Green Valley – Very clear, pale greenish tint in color with pronounced honeydew melon and fresh green apple aromas. Intensely refreshing and exhilarating with crisp acidity that enhances but not overpowers. $15.00

2004 Off Dry Riesling, St. Helena Estate – What great fun – tangerine and intoxicatingly exotic fruits in the nose do not overwhelm with sweetness at only .8% residual sugar. Stunningly balanced demonstrates crispness and a clean pineapple mid-palate that has a long, intense finish. $19.00

2003 Tinto Classico, Old Vines, Oakville Estate – I felt very fortunate to taste this wine-club members’-only wine; a field-blend of an old-clone Zinfandel, Cabernet Pfeffer, Alicante Bouschet, Carignane, Petite Sirah,
Mouvedre, Refosco, Napa Gamay, and Pinot Noir. This was a stunningly complex wine which teased with both hints of tobacco and heightened with raspberry. The entry was jammy with plum and hints of cocoa. I found both spice and and dark cherry on the finish which was long and exciting. NFS

2002 Cabernet Franc, St. Helena Estate – Dark ruby with purple tones, aromas of dark fruit and hints of dried floral qualities of lavender and violet. The mouth entry was dark and fruity, showing both plum and dark berry but the finish was a bit dry. $32.00

2002 Meritage, St. Helena Estate – A classic blend of 54% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 9% Cabernet Franc. Still a bit young with over oak and fruit just barely hiding hints of greenish which will undoubtedly bow out with age. Even, balanced entry blossomed in the mid-palate and the bright, tannic finish supported my initial thoughts of youth. $45.00

Casa Nuestra ~ 3451 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5783

Chateau Boswell – 68

Wednesday, April 27th, 2005

Cb_signChateau Boswell is one that has intrigued me for some time because of its old-world charm and style in architecture. It lies on the Silverado Trail, beyond Deer Park towards Calistoga. I hazard to guess it is a part of the Trail that is far less traveled as many folks tends towards the town of St. Helena before venturing up that far. Pity that, for a number of exceptional wineries lie up in that vicinity.

Cb_bldgChateau Boswell is not a very well known name due to their limited production; 300 cases of an already-sold-out Chardonnay, 330 cases of a Cuvée, and barely 165 cases of a Reserve Cabernet. Started 1979 by Dr. R. Thornton and Susan Boswell, it is still family-owned and operated. The grapes are grown organically, but not yet certified as such.

Cb_susanWhen I visited, I was surprised to meet Susan Boswell herself pouring wine and greeting customers. I was fortunate that they are usually only open by appointment and that I stumbled upon an open tasting room on a Saturday. Susan even admitted that her son usually does the tastings. She did explain that all the wines are dedicated to members of the family and that each year she designs a special back label with custom artwork in those dedications.

Cb_tasting_roomThe tasting room is barely that — a small enclave with antiques which lies adjacent to the barrel room of the winery. There is a hint of mustiness in the air which seems to compliment the surroundings. I tasted two of the offerings during my visit, both of which were exceptional.

2002 Jacquelynn Cuvée — Named after their daughter, this is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc, both from the Stags Leap District. Intensely opulent without the classic dirty Stags Leap flavors I tend to expect. Aromas of dark berry and hints of mocha with balanced tannins that produce concentrated, well-structured fruit and a silky, lingering finish. $64.00

2002 Renaissance Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – Allowing me to taste a sold-out wine is usually a sure sign I am going to want it… Dark aromas of well-integrated blackberry, cassis, oak, and spice successfully anticipate the elegant entry and mouth feel of this wine. 100% new French oak is evident with hints of smoke on the back palate, just barely subsiding to the velvety finish. $94.00

Chateau Boswell ~ 3468 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 707-963-5472

V. Sattui – 67

Thursday, April 21st, 2005

Vs_signV. Sattui is a tad controversial for a variety of reason. Mostly, it is scoffed at by some wine geeks and locals because it is such a magnet for tourist crowds. With its long-standing history, it is one of the few wineries in the valley that allows picnicking on the grounds. Subsequently, on a hot summer afternoon, the grassy area out front could be literally swamped with bodies.

Vs_bldgThere are a number of anomalies related to V. Sattui — of note, they do not utilize the distribution system known throughout the wine industry. What does this mean for the consumer? It means that you will never find a V. Sattui wine on a store shelf but are able to have it shipped directly to you, wherever you live (except, of course, Utah).

Vs_tasting_bar_1The picnic area thrives in part because of the tremendously stocked cheese shop and deli. I had visited once during the crush of the crowds and it was only upon a second, quieter visit that I was able to appreciate the quality selection of the cheeses offered. With service of upwards of 2,500 people a DAY during the summer, it is no wonder they have a reputation for selling more cheese than any other store in the state. And the wine? A multitude of offerings – something for everyone, from the beginner to the experienced taster with almost 35 different wines being made. On any given visit, the free tasting will include almost a dozen of those:

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Suzanne’s Vineyard – Mostly apple and some grass on the nose. Tangy entry with acidic mid-palate. Long, tart finish which shows both herbaciousness and a bit of flinty minerality. 100% Stainless Steel. $16.25

2002 Chardonnay, Carneros – Light on the malo, mostly lemony tones up front.  Sharp, tangy mouthfeel with sharp, tropical fruits that produce a mostly tight, harsh finish. $25.00

2004 Off-Dry Johannisberg Riesling – (Not to be confused with their Dry Johannisberg Riesling!). At 2% residual sugar, mostly sweet offerings of apricot and melon with a distinct honeysuckle finish. $17.50

2003 Gamay Rouge – Downright fluorescent in color, this 1.5% residual sugar tasted shockingly sweeter than the previous Riesling offering. Overwhelming candied cherry and strawberry aromas with a Kool-Aid-like sweet, tinny taste and a mineral finish. $16.25

2001 Pinot Noir, Carneros; Henry Ranch – Harsh candy aromas with a hot, metallic entry. Dry in the middle with a licorice finish. $15.95

2002 Merlot, Carneros; Henry Ranch – Berry and spicy herbs in the bouquet but a hot entry that finishes rather thick and pasty. $25.00

2002 Howell Mountain Zinfandel – Dark, opulent berries with cinnamon and clove wafting behind the fruit. Velvety, soft entry with a long, complex finish. Quite a find! $30.00

2002 Contra Costa Zinfandel, Old Vine – From 48-year old vines. Plummy nose belies the spicy entry and dry, tannic finish. $26.00

2002 Preston Cabernet Sauvignon – Candy shop aromas produce cherry and oak flavors. Dry mid-palate with decent, even finish. $39.00

2002 Morisoli Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark blackberry and cherry with a hint of medicinal tones behind the fruit. Cherry entry with a mineral finish. $47.00

1997 Vin Santo – An intriguing combination of Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Cahaiola grapes. I couldn’t get past the sweetness to discern taste. $25.00

2005 Muscat – Grape nose with candy and orange blossom flavors. Metallic, tinny finish. $17.00

NV Angelica – Interesting blend of a Muscat grapes blended with alembic brandy. Intensely aggressive with some orange behind the heat. $25.00

Madeira – "The oldest produced in the United States." I am entirely unfamiliar with Madeira and can only indicate that I perceived definite oak qualities with sweet molasses. A bit raisiny with a anisette finish. $37.00

V. Sattui ~ 1111 White Lane ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7774

Flora Springs – 62

Thursday, April 7th, 2005

Flora_springs_signFlora Springs winery is located on Highway 29 and is almost easy to miss for while most winery tasting rooms on the main drag have large, stand-alone facilities, Flora Springs sits nestled amongst a cluster of buildings that shares a parking lot with Calistoga Roastery (a coffee house) and Dean & Deluca. A vine-covered building might almost be lost, but is well worth looking for!

Flora_springs_bldgThis is another one of those wineries that I have placed in a number of categories for while the physical tasting room lies in St. Helena appellation, the vineyards for the wines are located in St. Helena, Rutherford, and Oakville appellations.

Flora_springs_barThe tasting room itself is large and inviting with an center-staged tasting bar-in-the-round placed dead center in the room. This makes for lots of comfortable space as well as a generally warm and inviting atmosphere. There are also a number of literary and cinematic allusions which I greatly admire; the Lavender Hill Vineyards for their Pinot was named after the Alec Guinness movie The Lavender Hill Mob, a one-sheet is located on an adjacent wall, and the Toad Hall Cellars Club references the Wind in the Willows, the owner’s wife’s favorite book (there are a number of toad references around the tasting room as well).

Flora_springs_wallA note about the walls – along with movie posters, they are covered with these amazing caricatures of the family set next to photographs of the person so depicted. Also of note is a wine list far more extensive than my tasting allowed; additional wines include several Pinots, a variety of vineyard-specific Cabernets, a Sangiovese.

2002 Soliloquey – I’m not sure why this wine has a special name. It is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc and maybe it is because it comes from the Sauvignon Musque clone. It shows the classic green apple/grass combination in its bouquet that is perfumey and bright which enters the mouth with a warm, creamy sensation that finishes crisp and engaging. $18.00

2003 Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay – I was surprised to be told this Chardonnay saw no malo for there is a hint of butter and vanilla on the nose. The entry is lively with tropical fruits dominated with pineapple tones that is a touch sweet with balance and body. $22.00

2001 Pinot, Lavender Hill Vineyards – Oxidized.

2000 Poggio Del Papa – 75% Sangiovese, 16% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. An interesting blend that shows the dark, plummy, jammy fruit of the Merlot with cherry aromas and some oak in the beginning. The Sangiovese brings acidity to the forefront, but in an even, pleasing fashion. $30.00

2002 Napa Valley Merlot – A lighter, softer Merlot than I have been drinking lately. Oak and fruit are balanced in the aroma, with neither overpowering the other. Some mineral tones in the mid-palate, it demonstrates a fresh, cherry finish that is easy going down. $24.00

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – 100% Cabernet immediately shows dark, chocolate-covered cherry aromas with hints of cedar and oak. The cherry is coupled with elements of cassis in the mouth with some mineral qualities mid-way. A bit dry on the finish is a light touch. $30.00

2001 Trilogy – 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. The faintest of green bell pepper under incredibly plummy, dark fruit aromas. Balanced tannins reveals a touch of minerality in the mid-palate but blossoms in a finish that reveals cherry. $60.00

Flora Springs ~ 677 S. St. Helena Highway ~ St. Helena ~ 800-913-1118