Ultimate California Wine Blog

The phenomenon of the Two-Buck Chuck can hardly be ignored. There are a lot of people who like to drink huge amounts of affordable wine.  The über wine snobs who frequent the multitude of wine-based chat rooms refer to this practice as quaffing. I have long been on the fence about the production of such wine and their overall attraction. The friends and family I have who are just learning about wine are put off by the overall expense of the proposition of learning on $50 cabs… It is understandably difficult to learn about different varietals at even $10 or $20 a bottle. With that in mind, it is incredibly easy to recommend Wooden Valley Winery.

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Located just a two miles from the Napa county line, the winery does require a bit of a search as it lies well off the beaten track, on a back road in the farm country of the Suisun valley. The winery has been in business for over a half-a-century, producing 18,000 cases a year. Having almost 20 different wines to try, not charging a tasting is pretty unusual. These are uncomplicated, affordable wines.

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The tasting room is incredibly expansive. Visiting there mid-day and mid-week, I was still surprised at the crowds that gathered along the 30- to 40-foot long bar. There are historic artifacts from the Lanza family who have owned and operated the winery from the beginning. The pouring staff and laid back to the point where you have to actually ask about buying — nothing is forced whatsoever. While I might not drink these wines on a daily basis, I would not hesitate to bring Dad here and let him loose.

2002 Chardonnay – 100% stainless steel. Green entry, some green apple. Thin finish. $7.00

2002 Sauvignon Blanc – Sweet, bright aromas with a sweet entry that suggests residual sugar. Grass and kiwi flavors that are smoother than I thought they might be. $7.00

2001 Viognier – Skunky aromas masks a sweet entry which turns a bit astringent. $8.00

2003 White Gamay – Salmon color with candy shop aromas. Slightly effervescent that produces a classic old-world penny candy flavor in the mouth. $6.00

2002 Valdiguie – Intensely bright red colors demonstrate fresh cherry with secondary smoke and herbs on the nose. Smooth entry is slightly acidic. A candy shop feel that is even and smooth but fails to thrill. $7.00

2002 Pinot – Slightly green, smoky bouquet which subsides to show more dark berry and vanilla tones. Astonishing aromas give way to some sweet, candy cherry aromas. Slightly harsh entry expands to more strident and metallic flavors that thins on the finish. $11.00

2001 Estate Merlot – 87% Merlot, 5.6% Petite Sirah, and 7.4% Syrah. Dark ruby color producing green bell pepper and berry notes on the nose. Hot. Medicinal flavors expand to produce a green herbaceousness with a dry, tannic finish. $13.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon – Green bell pepper aromas that do not anticipate the bright berry mouth feel. A bit thin. $9.00

2000 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – 18 months in American oak shows surprisingly dark, elegant fruit with some greeness. There are hints of spice in the entry but turns a bit green on the finish. Pretty decent for the price. $13.00

2001 Estate Syrah – Ripe, warm cherry bouquet. Medicinal, camphor-like entry with overt smoke in the mid-palate. An herbal finish is a tad dry, but an excellent example of the varietal for the cost. $9.00

Some Sweet Wines

2003 Riesling – With a residual sugar of 5.4%, this intensely sweet wine was almost syrupy in consistency. Hints of apple, best served very cold. I bought a bottle for my brother-in-law who adores very sweet, easy-drinking wines. $8.00

Doce Dorato – A blend of Muscat and Canelli grapes. Not as sweet as the Riesling but still pretty intense in sugars and fruit flavors. $5.00

Wooden Valley Winery ~ 4756 Suisun Valley Road ~ Fairfield ~ CA ~ 94534 ~ 707-864-0730

Working on Howell Mountain, I admit a certain affinity to the neighbors and styles of wine being produced. Much of the wine made on the mountain is created either by families who feel a close connection with the terroir and all that the mountain has to offer, or by larger corporations who are producing very small lots of a Howell Mountain wine from either their own small acres or by grapes purchased from the families who are part of the landscape. The Lamborn Family Winery are such a family, holding a unique position with an impressive history on the mountain.

I had the distinct pleasure of meeting Mike and Terry Lamborn and hearing their story: Mike’s father, Bob (affectionately known as "Papa"), started by buying nine acres of property in 1971 and seriously considered planting melons. Fortunately, they decided on Zinfandel instead and by 1975, sold their nine acres and moved up the mountain a bit to a 15-acre parcel.

Well, with no consultants to tell them how or in what direction to plant their vineyards, divine providence must have been work. For there is an old addage that aerodynamically, the bumblebee shouldn’t be able to fly, but the bumblebee doesn’t know that so it goes on flying anyway. This applied to Bob because with what he did in setting up his property, he should never have been able to create wine. Mike marvels to this day the good fortune that has shined down on them in their success — but with Heidi Peterson Barrett as winemaker, how could they fail?

Several years and another move from those 15 acres to a larger, 30-acre parcel has seen the growth of the Lamborn Family Winery. Bob passed away just a year ago, in April of 2004, but son, Mike, as well as Mike and Terry’s sons and daughters-in-law AND grandchildren are all devoted to continuing the legacy as well as moving onward and upward. While they have been concentrating on Zinfandel all these years, a Lamborn-made, Howell Mountain Cabernet is in the works and I, for one, hope to be first on the list for tasting.

If you decide to visit, be prepared to laugh and become one of the family, for there is no formal tasting room — if you visit, you are invited into the family home to sample the wine. Sitting in the living room, next to the fireplace which is embellished with the family crest. Mike readily admits to cave-envy and instead of the classic cave tour, suffices to show off his amazing view and vineyards. Or, if you are like me, one can marvel at the array of stunning antiques and artwork which reflects the warmth of the hosts hospitality.

Until that Cab is released, one must suffer with the Zinfandels, if you can call it suffering…

1999 Lamborn Family Zinfandel; "The Solar Factor" – Aromas of dried fruit and dried flowers in a well-integrated, well-aged offering. Raspbery and lavender notes teased in the nose and in the entry. Bright acids were tempered with even, balanced tannins. Very soft and teasing at delicacy for a Zinfandel, the smooth mouthfeel provided a finish that included opulent dried spice and dusty heather qualities.

2001 Lamborn Family Zinfandel – Overt, rich mineral tones which subside to demonstrate dark fruit of blackberry, black raspberry, and cassis. A teasing of cocoa in the bouquet anticipates a darker, more structured spice in the mid-palate, showing cinnamon and clove which is musky and deep. Well balanced and integrated, a brighter Bing cherry tantalizes on the finish.

2002 Lamborn Family Zinfandel; "Platinum Anniversary" – Bright, smoky qualities show toasty oak and developed vanilla with are layered and complicated. Very silky on the palate, complex dark berry flavors predominate with a heightened, sweet finish that begs for a second and third taste. $36.00

Lamborn Family Winery ~ Summit Lake Drive ~ Angwin ~ CA ~ 94508 ~ 925-254-0511

Bremer Family Winery sits about halfway up Howell Mountain in the Napa Valley, but is just on the line of where the Howell Mountain appellation begins so technically, is still in the Napa Valley appellation. The Bremer family purchased an 1891 historic winery that at one point was owned by the Ballentine family.

The historic building is still in use and a black-and-white kitty was spied eyeing the visiting guests from one of the windows on the top floor. They are open to the public in a neighborhood of appointment-only wineries which is nice. On the day of my visit, they were surprisingly busy and having to accommodate guests both outside on tables by the historic building, plus in their indoor, sit-down tasting room.

Refreshingly intimate, there is no large retail-based tasting bar that one has to saddle-up to. Instead, as a desk setting, the pourer sits behind the large table that seats six comfortably and eight rather tightly. In a sense, he holds court while pouring and explaining family history, valley history, vineyard designations, and related local lore.  A number of bottles were open on my visit, and one point of especial interest is that while they are not part of Howell Mountain now, apparently the family is looking into buying some Howell Mountain fruit which is definitely something I will look forward to!

2001 Bremer Family Chardonnay – From a Carneros vineyard. Clear, bright yellow in tone, overt butter on nose with some warm tropical fruit and pear aromas. 100% malo produces a creamy entry with hints of coconut on the finish. $28.75

2002 Bremer Family Zinfandel – 65% Napa fruit and 35% Sonoma fruit. Intense dark berries almost hides a hint of green in the nose. Big, chewy entry shows white pepper and raspberry but thins a bit on the finish. $35.00

2001 Bremer Family Cabernet Franc - I’m always happy when I get to experience a hundred percent Cabernet Franc. This offering is from Rutherford fruit and was surprisingly jammy on the nose . Classic Rutherford dustiness in the mid-palate with black pepper. Even and balanced, the bright tannins demonstrated some elegant mineral qualities on the finish. $40.00

2001 Bremer Family Cabernet Sauvignon – Strong dark berry and black plummy bouquet also shows oaky vanilla. A bit of green shows in the mouth beneath the bright fruit. Would like to try again in ten years as I think time will smooth out the brightness. $50.00

2001 Bremer Family Claret – While the exact blend is a secret, this is roughly 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Petite Verdot. A classic Bordeaux blend immediately produces opulent dark fruit including cassis, blackberry, and black raspberry subsides to demonstrate hints of green olive and mineral qualities. The mouthfeel parallels but shows considerably more pronounced tannins with tobacco and cedar qualities. The smooth, even entry gets a bit hot. $60.00

2001 Bremer Family Merlot – Fresh, ripe dark purple color with appropriate dark fruit and some spice on the nose with shades of vanilla. Dark fruit segues into the mouth and shows leather and minerals. Long finish of vanilla and fruit. $40.00

Bremer Family Winery ~ 975 Deer Park Road ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-5411

This is my first and probably only plug I’ll ever make about an event; the First Annual Pinot Days Festival! Yes, I realize there is now a backlash AGAINST Pinot because of what is now known as the Sideways effect, but I was a known Pinotphiliac before the movie and continue to be one.

Organized by my friends Steve and Lisa Rigisich of the Bay Area Wine Project, the three-day festival is kicking off at Fort Mason in San Francisco on Friday night, June 24th with a taste-off comparison of The Best of the Santa Lucia Highlands featuring wines from The Pisoni, Gary’s, and Rosella’s Vineyards. The cool part about this is that the winemakers’ themselves will be at hand for questions, schmoozing, and general camaraderie. Saturday’s event is a tasting from seventy (70!) different Pinot producers along with some demonstrations of how this illustrious grape is so carefully handled. The finale of the weekend a Pinot-producer brunch in an intimate setting in Marin where *other* wines besides Pinot will be tasted (that’s not to say there won’t be Pinot available as well!)

I am looking forward to this event and hope it is the first of many!

Chateau Boswell is one that has intrigued me for some time because of its old-world charm and style in architecture. It lies on the Silverado Trail, beyond Deer Park towards Calistoga. I hazard to guess it is a part of the Trail that is far less traveled as many folks tends towards the town of St. Helena before venturing up that far. Pity that, for a number of exceptional wineries lie up in that vicinity.

Chateau Boswell is not a very well known name due to their limited production; 300 cases of an already-sold-out Chardonnay, 330 cases of a Cuvée, and barely 165 cases of a Reserve Cabernet. Started 1979 by Dr. R. Thornton and Susan Boswell, it is still family-owned and operated. The grapes are grown organically, but not yet certified as such.

When I visited, I was surprised to meet Susan Boswell herself pouring wine and greeting customers. I was fortunate that they are usually only open by appointment and that I stumbled upon an open tasting room on a Saturday. Susan even admitted that her son usually does the tastings. She did explain that all the wines are dedicated to members of the family and that each year she designs a special back label with custom artwork in those dedications.

The tasting room is barely that — a small enclave with antiques which lies adjacent to the barrel room of the winery. There is a hint of mustiness in the air which seems to compliment the surroundings. I tasted two of the offerings during my visit, both of which were exceptional.

2002 Jacquelynn Cuvée — Named after their daughter, this is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc, both from the Stags Leap District. Intensely opulent without the classic dirty Stags Leap flavors I tend to expect. Aromas of dark berry and hints of mocha with balanced tannins that produce concentrated, well-structured fruit and a silky, lingering finish. $64.00

2002 Renaissance Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – Allowing me to taste a sold-out wine is usually a sure sign I am going to want it… Dark aromas of well-integrated blackberry, cassis, oak, and spice successfully anticipate the elegant entry and mouth feel of this wine. 100% new French oak is evident with hints of smoke on the back palate, just barely subsiding to the velvety finish. $94.00

Chateau Boswell ~ 3468 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 707-963-5472