Ultimate California Wine Blog

V. Sattui is a tad controversial for a variety of reason. Mostly, it is scoffed at by some wine geeks and locals because it is such a magnet for tourist crowds. With its long-standing history, it is one of the few wineries in the valley that allows picnicking on the grounds. Subsequently, on a hot summer afternoon, the grassy area out front could be literally swamped with bodies.

There are a number of anomalies related to V. Sattui — of note, they do not utilize the distribution system known throughout the wine industry. What does this mean for the consumer? It means that you will never find a V. Sattui wine on a store shelf but are able to have it shipped directly to you, wherever you live (except, of course, Utah).

The picnic area thrives in part because of the tremendously stocked cheese shop and deli. I had visited once during the crush of the crowds and it was only upon a second, quieter visit that I was able to appreciate the quality selection of the cheeses offered. With service of upwards of 2,500 people a DAY during the summer, it is no wonder they have a reputation for selling more cheese than any other store in the state. And the wine? A multitude of offerings – something for everyone, from the beginner to the experienced taster with almost 35 different wines being made. On any given visit, the free tasting will include almost a dozen of those:

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Suzanne’s Vineyard – Mostly apple and some grass on the nose. Tangy entry with acidic mid-palate. Long, tart finish which shows both herbaciousness and a bit of flinty minerality. 100% Stainless Steel. $16.25

2002 Chardonnay, Carneros – Light on the malo, mostly lemony tones up front.  Sharp, tangy mouthfeel with sharp, tropical fruits that produce a mostly tight, harsh finish. $25.00

2004 Off-Dry Johannisberg Riesling – (Not to be confused with their Dry Johannisberg Riesling!). At 2% residual sugar, mostly sweet offerings of apricot and melon with a distinct honeysuckle finish. $17.50

2003 Gamay Rouge – Downright fluorescent in color, this 1.5% residual sugar tasted shockingly sweeter than the previous Riesling offering. Overwhelming candied cherry and strawberry aromas with a Kool-Aid-like sweet, tinny taste and a mineral finish. $16.25

2001 Pinot Noir, Carneros; Henry Ranch – Harsh candy aromas with a hot, metallic entry. Dry in the middle with a licorice finish. $15.95

2002 Merlot, Carneros; Henry Ranch – Berry and spicy herbs in the bouquet but a hot entry that finishes rather thick and pasty. $25.00

2002 Howell Mountain Zinfandel – Dark, opulent berries with cinnamon and clove wafting behind the fruit. Velvety, soft entry with a long, complex finish. Quite a find! $30.00

2002 Contra Costa Zinfandel, Old Vine – From 48-year old vines. Plummy nose belies the spicy entry and dry, tannic finish. $26.00

2002 Preston Cabernet Sauvignon – Candy shop aromas produce cherry and oak flavors. Dry mid-palate with decent, even finish. $39.00

2002 Morisoli Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark blackberry and cherry with a hint of medicinal tones behind the fruit. Cherry entry with a mineral finish. $47.00

1997 Vin Santo – An intriguing combination of Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Cahaiola grapes. I couldn’t get past the sweetness to discern taste. $25.00

2005 Muscat – Grape nose with candy and orange blossom flavors. Metallic, tinny finish. $17.00

NV Angelica – Interesting blend of a Muscat grapes blended with alembic brandy. Intensely aggressive with some orange behind the heat. $25.00

Madeira – "The oldest produced in the United States." I am entirely unfamiliar with Madeira and can only indicate that I perceived definite oak qualities with sweet molasses. A bit raisiny with a anisette finish. $37.00

V. Sattui ~ 1111 White Lane ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-7774

I’ve been working on the report for Kathryn Kennedy wines for some time. As they are not open to the public, it was not possible to taste the wines at that time so a small selection was taken for tasting with food. I will blog the winery specifics later and link it back to this report but wanted to at least get the food report up. Marty Mathis, Kennedy’s son and winemaker agreed that the wines are best sampled with food and I could think of no better way to taste the wines with a variety of foods. And there is no better place in Napa than Zuzu for tapas.

To a get a broad variety of the styles of wine that Kennedy offers, we chose a 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, a 2001 Tempranillo (sadly, now discontinued), and a 1999 Maridon Vineyard Syrah. I have to admit, I specifically asked for the Tempranillo when I saw it in a case box. Marty admitted that the last of it was being sent to their wine club members only at this point and the vines are being budded over.

One of the many things I like about Zuzu is that their menu changes with the seasons. I have dined their often enough to not be bored and this time was especially thrilling as the spring/summer menu is brand new to me. Giving us time to peruse the recent offerings, a selection of olives and spiced almonds were ordered to stave off the desperate hunger that was setting in. Fortunately, there were four of us to work our way through the menu which promised to be compelling with the wine choices. I started sipping the Sauvignon Blanc which was very pale straw in color. Immediately, I found it tart with lemon and grapefruit notes. There was a heightened green apple in the mid-palate with a luscious, melon and litchee finish. There was a sweet hint to the wine when tasted with the olives, and spicy notes when paired with the almonds.

I frequently forget to order salad in restaurants as they are usually blasé and uninteresting. This one was not, studded with salami, hard-boiled eggs, sliced pepperoncini, miniature tomatoes, and a creamy, enticing dressing. Another sip of the Sauvignon Blanc produced stunning melony flavors that were downright creamy next to the tang in the dressing.

But the reason for this evening as to taste with wines, so the Tempranillo was also opened. I am
truly sorry this wine is no longer being made as the initial aromas of
plum hides hints of earthiness. A swirl or two later, and orgasmic
coffee and chocolate aromas develop.

Next came a variety of fish courses. The first was bay scallops, broiled with Jambon Serrano and bread crumbs. These did not last very long as the contrast of the salty bits with the crunchy bread crumbs enlivened the sweet scallops. With the Tempranillo, hints of a floral bouquet with highlights of minerality and perfectly balanced tannins.

Bacalao is the Spanish word for dried salt cod. Here, it is taken to a new level. There is much debate about the over-use of truffle oil, but with the saltiness of the puréed cod, I think truffle oil is a perfectly fine application. The tang of the salt showed considerably more grapefruit with in the Sauvignon Blanc, while in the Tempranillo, a depth of butter was evident in the bacalao preparation.

Not wanting to wait any longer, the Syrah was opened. Dark and inky purple in color, candy shop aromas were immediate but subsided to show an intense, elegant smokiness. Plum and dark black berries played against tantalizing meaty barbecue flavors and hints of roasted Brazilian nuts and pepper. I immediately tasted this again a roasted octopus salad with harissa dressing and shredded greens. The harissa was spicy and brought out the fruit-bomb nature of the freshly-opened Syrah.

With our two red wines, heartier dishes were a necessity and house-made chorizo with French lentils was the perfect choice. The chorizo was slightly smoked and very tender and the dark, baby lentils produced depth and contrast, especially with the Tempranillo which heightened with more dark chocolate flavors.

A showcase of Zuzu’s menu, and one that does not change, regardless of the season, is their paella. Here it is served with four mussels, four clams, chorizo, and a hefty dollop of aïoli. In the past (or perhaps when they are fresh), there have been shrimp in the paella as well. This was an amazing accompaniment to the Syrah, which was opening and blossoming with that hefty, chewy tang found in dark molasses and elegant port-like on the finish.

Feeling a bit overwhelmed with the heavier courses, I ordered some roasted fennel with caramelized shallots. Incredibly tender and sweet, the licorice hints in the fennel brought out the mineral tones in the Tempranillo but emphasized the smokiness of the Syrah. Getting full and winding down, there was a bit of wine left and room for one last course.

The Zuzu tortilla is legendary in my eyes. Well, they call it a tortilla but I look at it more as a miniature potato soufflé as it is prepared and served in a miniature cast-iron skillet, all puffed up and hot with a side of aïoli. The perfectly carb-nature of this last dish perfectly accentuated the last remaining glasses of red wine, a few rapturous tastes of both the Syrah and Tempranillo that were left…

Zuzu ~ 829 Main Street ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 707-224-8555

I had indicated in the Pinot Paradise blog that the event was held at Testarossa. But I made sure to arrive at the event early enough to do a little tasting at the host winery. The winery setting is exceptionally stunning as it was an historical Noviate and still houses many of the retired Brothers on the property.

"Testarossa" literally means "red head" was so named after after founder Rob Jensen, a nickname he acquired while a university student in Italy. He and his wife, Diana, began winemaking in their garage but by 1993, had been fully bitten by the bug and purchased the Novitiate estate to showcase their finely made juice.

The entrance is a long, stone walkway which houses many historical photographs of the Brothers and the legacy contained within. The tasting room is large, inviting, and comfortable. The pouring staff is generous and informed, helping with questions about the various I had about vineyards. Testarossa specializes in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah which is a bit of an oddity and a delight in the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-heavy world.

2003 Castello Chardonnay – 100% malo from Central Coast vineyards. Tropical fruit followed by darker, more elegant apricot aromas. Creamy entry with a mid-palate of oak and the classical, buttery finish. $26.00

2003 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay – Elder Series – From the Santa Maria Valley. Pineapple and citrus bouquet with a lively, tangy entry. A layered mid-palate shows both hints of oak and honey. $36.00

2002 Palazzio Pinot Noir – A blend of fruit from Bien Nacido, Brosseau, Clos Pepe, Garys’, Michaud, Pisoni, Rosella’s, Sleepy Hollow, and Sonatera vineyards. Dark strawberry and raspberry tones with brown spicy aromas. Mineral entry with a tangy mid-palate and a bright finish. $32.00

2003 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir – Dark raspberry and elegant, layered spice on the nose with hints of tobacco. A vegetal center complements the fruit with a long, finish of BBQ and fat. $54.00

2001 Gary’s Pinot Noir – (Member’s only, not available for purchase) Intensely dark berry and opulent spice. Some minerals on the entry which transforms to an herby mid-palate and a long, earthy, morel finish. $54.00

2002 Ferrari Club Syrah – Made in affiliation with the Ferrari Club of America, the label shows the famous Italian sportscar. Incredible fruit-forward dark berry that subsides to produce cinnamon and clove bouquet. Astonishing bright cherry entry that gives was to an earthy, mushroom middle. Even acids and layered textures provide a bright finish. $25.00

Testarossa Vineyards ~ 300-A College Avenue ~ Los Gatos ~ CA ~ 95030 ~ 408-354-6150

Pinot Paradise, held on April 10th, was the first annual event put on by the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association intended to showcase the Pinot Noir produced by their members, some of whom produce only Pinot and many who produce other varietal wines as well. Knowing that I was going to have to spend some time blogging the wineries of Santa Cruz, it seemed reasonable to tie in attendance to this event as well. With the rise of Pinot sales and interest (now known as The Sideways effect), it was no surprise that the event was extremely well-attended having sold out three weeks in advance.

Held at the stunning Testarossa winery, the organization pulled out the stops to promote the event to the media, starting with an inviting and cordial introduction by Dave Moulton of Burrell School Vineyards and Winery, Rob Jensen of Testarossa, and Michael Martella of Thomas Fogarty Winery and Vineyards.

Michael was the one expanded upon the specific of the region, explaining that of the 1,200 acres of vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains, 300 acres is donated exclusively to the Pinot grape. The soils are "medium" in density, meaning not too rich in that much of it lies on top of shell and fractures of limestone and sandstone which provides excellent drainage. The roots subsequently work their way into a more minerally substance which is evident in the flavors of the wine; "more about the soils than the bright fruit = more in balance."

Allowing us a little head start before the rest of the public, I was able to start tasting with ease, starting off the bat with Aptos Creek, tasting their 2001, 2002, and 2003 (barrel sample) offerings. The 2001 was their first release and was entirely dry-farmed. In it, I found decent color and bouquet with classic mineral and cherry flavors. The 2002 offered warm, dark berry and spice qualities on the nose. Bright and engaging fruit with more spice on the finish. The 03 barrel sample was intensely fruit-forward with substantial oak aromas that will undoubtedly subside with age.

Next along the table-line was Alfaro Family Winery, pouring several 2003 offerings; Schultze Family Vineyards from Windy Oaks which I found extremely smooth, even, and balanced with mineral and berry qualities. The Alfaro Estate seemed a tad harsh next to the Schultze. Lastly, I reveled in the Gary’s Vineyard which was dark and elegant, with dark raspberry, cinnamon, and clove on entry and an expansive, balanced mineral finish.

I was beginning to figure out the alphabetical system as the next table I hit was Bargetto pouring their 2003 Trout Creek. I loved talking with these folks and regretting not jotting down their names. For years the Bargetto family were wholesale fruit growers who decided to make some wine themselves, now producing 5,000 cases under the Bargetto name, but also producing under a number of different labels including Chaucer’s, LaVita, and Coastal Cellars. I found the Trout Creek to be surprisingly fruit-forward considering the more mineral qualities evident in the previously-tasted wines. There was substantial dark berry and a tad uneven which might smooth out with age.

I was greatly looking forward to tasting the Burrell School after meeting Dave Moulton. They were also pouring past, present and futures of their Pinot offering. The 2001 Santa Cruz Mountain was surprisingly hot with alcohol but exhibited stunning cherry aromas that also paralleled in the mouth entry. I liked the textured mineral qualities and the silky, cherry finish. The 2002 had similar cherry notes but layered with some raspberry. The tannins were well-integrated and the finish even and smooth. Some 2003 barrel samples were provided but I was a bit overwhelmed with the sulpher which was too prevalent.

Byington was tasted next and impressed me greatly. In tasting the 2002 Estate Pinot, I was swayed with a great, heady nose of dark berry, an even, balanced entry, and a long, spicy finish. An interesting contrast was the 2002 Van Der Kamp Pinot from Sonoma. Differing from the normally bright, mineral qualities of the Santa Cruz Mountain Pinots, this was intensely dark and fruit-forward with port-like qualities on the back palate.

Tempting fate (and potentially my palate), I could barely resist the offerings of Cocoa Pete, one of my favorite confectionery. Much has been written about the compatibility of Pinot with food and some amazing local eateries were also in attendance offering some fabulous munchies. The downside seemed to be the growing attendance which must not have been anticipated caused many restaurants to run out of food within an hour or so of the event’s start.

As the crowds were growing exponentially, it was significantly more difficult to get into taste or write notes. I did get to taste offerings from Cinnabar, (2003, bright fruit and signficant mineral) Clos La Chance, (2001 Erwin Vineyard, medicinal; 2002, some raspberry and very nicely balanced) and Clos Tita (1999, oxidized with Band-Aid and medicinal qualities; 2000, green bell pepper and brett; 2001 Estate, fruit-forward with hints of medicine) before heading to the first of several scheduled break-out sessions offered.

Jeffrey Patterson of Mt. Eden Vineyards was the first of five break-out sessions but I was especially anxious as I had met Jeff the previous day at his estate (to be blogged later). He is eloquent, soft-spoken, and extremely passionate about his estate and his wine. During his talk, several vintages were offered for tasting as well. The 2000 was extremely soft and elegant with a hint of smoke on the entry. Exotic, incensey perfume exuded in the bouquet. The 2001 had more mineral qualities. The nose was elegant showing spicy, smoke, and balanced fruit. The mouth entry was a tad thin compared to the 2000. The 2002, however, was heady and elegant showing very bright fruit. Hints of cinnamon and mineral on the finish provided texture and depth. I love these wines…

After Jeffrey’s talk, I started to head back towards the tasting area and was surprised at the number of people eating and drinking wine in an adjacent parking lot. My surprise gave way to disdain as I attempted to re-enter the tasting area when I realized the crowds had swelled in my absence. A few attempts were made to taste the Pinots of Woodside (2001, some mineral – harsh entry) and Trout Gulch (1990, earthy, old, and past its prime; 2000, showing earth and brett, lively tantalizing) before I completely abandoned the idea for want of any reasonable space.

I did witness some attempt at organizers to gather glasses from wineries (apparently, they were not supposed to have them for tasting) as it became painfully obvious the event was either over-sold or simply better-attended than anticipated. I believe the space was well-laid out, even though I prefer having food booths far away from wine pouring booths – something that is rarely done at mass tastings and I feel the aromas of cooking food interferes with quality wine evaluation. Despite that, it seemed as though the space would have been perfect for 300 to 400 attendees and there were clearly more along the lines of 700+. Not wanting to brave the crowds for the dozen or so wineries I had yet to taste, I decamped… but look forward to future events.

Cooper-Garrod is a small winery and riding stables located in the Santa Cruz mountains. But it is also actually two family names; George Cooper being the winemaker and manager and Jan Garrod as vineyard manager with members of both family  working many aspects of both businesses.

The neighboring valley, before it was "Silicon Valley," was actually known for apricot and prune orchards. The tasting room is a Historic Fruit House where apricots and prunes
were dried. Scattered around the room are many historical documents and
family photos from George’s days as a WWII figher pilot. Immediately adjacent to the building are the numerous stables and horses.

The day of my visit saw Barbara Cooper manning the tasting room who is  diminutive in stature, but hardly in character, cracking jokes and making everyone feel as though they are very much at home. There is a free tasting of three wines and an additional Proprietor’s Flight of an additional four wines for $5.00

2002 Viognier – Enticing sandalwood aromas. Mouth feel of stone fruit with even acidity and citrus peel in the finish. $24.00

2001 Chardonnay – 100% malo. Spicy, tropical buttery bouquet with a hint of minerality. Honey-like entry is smooth with a continuation of the mineral notes. Some light vanilla tones on the finish. $20.00

2000 Cabernet Franc – Pale red in color, very spicey with brown sugar that barely hides bright raspberry bouquet. The velvety entry shows the faintest hint of medicine. Balanced in tannins and medium bodied. Excellent for the price. $24.00

1999 Lone Oak Cabernet Sauvignon – Some bright plum and red berry aromas with a hint of green bell pepper. Thin, mineral entry that is a bit pale and wanting. $28.00

1999 George’s Cabernet Sauvignon – Jammy blackberry in nose belies a bit of green bell pepper on the mouth entry. Leather in the mid-palate does provide a long finish. $35.00

1999 R.V.’s Fine Claret – 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc. Explosive black cherry that is perfumey and inviting. Cherry enters the mouth, accompanied with some raspberry and cassis and subsides to produce a balanced, cedary mid-palate. Some green on the finish. $32.00

2001 Syrah – From the Maridon vineyards (where Kathryn Kennedy gets her Syrah), this is Cooper-Garrod’s first attempt at a Syrah and quite exceptional at that. Deceptive aromas of exotic perfumey incense and violets does not anticipate the dark cherry and cedar tastes. Quite fun. $24.00

Cooper-Garrod Estate Vineyards ~ 22645 Garrod Road ~ Saratoga ~ CA ~ 95070 ~ 408-867-7116