Ultimate California Wine Blog

Today starts yet another new category for your consideration. Along with Mass Tastings, I intended to include Restaurant Tastings this very weekend, when a very special Pinot-themed meal will be held and subsequently blogged. But another Restaurant Tasting presented itself out of the blue this evening  and it was too special and extraordinary to not share, for tonight I dined at Sub Rosa, the ultimate in virtual dining and tasting.

That’s right, I said virtual. Invited by Mike Sherwood and Linda Lausmann, I entered through the portals of the Sub Rosa’s front page to be transformed… Wait, let me explain something that makes this all-the-more-enticing for one such as me; Sub-rosa is actually defined as Designed to be secret or confidential; secretive; private. It is a phrase oft-found within various alchemical texts and is well known amongst secret societies. I could explain more, but that would be breaking oaths taken long ago … whilst wearing hooded robes in rooms laden with the thick smoke of exotic incense and flickering candles…

So what is the restaurant all about, you ask? It is an experience to be had in private or with friends, late at night or early in the morning, whether hungry or recently sated. You start on the web, but finish in your own imagination. In truth, the restaurant has a pleasing décor with a subtle, soothing dusty sage wallpaper. The artwork entices and teases. And there is a charming selection of music to accompany the dining experience. I started my meal with a lovely Walla Walla Sweet Onion Tart with Balsamic Vinegar which had a perfectly flaky crust. The sweetness of the onions contrasted with well with the delightful tang of the Balsamic. I accompanied this starter with a 2002 Nigl Gruner Veltliner – Senftenburg/Kremstal from Austria. Which provided the perfect hint of sweetness in its green apple entry and balanced finish.

I then decided to move on to their Braised Beef Short Ribs with Oven Roasted Root Vegetables. This seemed the perfect choice as Sub Rosa’s extensive wine list is riddled heavily with Pinot Noir. I can only suspect that these short ribs were braised the day before as the incredible tenderness accomplished can only be obtained with slow, deliberate braising and a day’s rest. With this hearty dish, I tried the 1999 Argyle Spirit House from the Willamette Valley which was just substantial enough to complement the ribs. The wine was opulent with notes of cherry and dark berry with lovely, silky spicy finish.

Being too full for a plated dessert, I opted for a "stickie" wine to finish my luxurious meal. The ’92 Fonseca Port was the perfect finish however I might recommend the addition of a cheese plate to the menu as an accompaniment to the great wines. I can only imagine what local artisinal cheeses are available in the vicinity. I will go back often to sample the changing menu. I am charmed and enchanted and, as Rumi said, "In the driest whitest stretch of pain’s infinite desert, I lost my sanity and found this rose."

Chimney Rock is one of the many wineries along the Silverado Trail which lies within the famed Stags Leap District. For Chimney Rock, not only does the winery sit within the appellation, but all 112 vineyard acres which make up their wine is Stags Leap as well. Initially, this would fill me with some trepidation, knowing my tepid reaction to Stags Leap appellation wines in general. Fortunately, Chimney Rock proved me wrong.

Here is where I learn about architecture. From the street, the Chimney Rock buildings seem reminiscent of some of the California Missions and I thought the architecture a tad Spanish in that respect. It is stately and elegant and up until a few months ago, was marked by a row of Cyprus trees which have since been removed. Apparently the architecture is not remotely influenced by the California Missions, but (according to their website) inspired by the Cape Dutch. Interesting, isn’t it?
 

The cost for the tasting is $10.00 for five wines but if you want to taste only reds (and a reserve), than the fee is $15.00. Both fees offer a complimentary glass with the tasting. The room has vaulted ceilings and adds an aura of elegance and class. The pouring staff are extremely pleasant, happily describing the wines, the neighborhood, and Napa in general, with no pretense or hard sale. Great wines and a great atmosphere.

2003 Fumé Blanc – 20% French oak and 80% Aluminum. The aluminum surprised me. I am accustomed to stainless steel, but rarely aluminum. I was also told that it was 100% fermented dry. It produced a wine that is a light straw color with clear tropical and apricot notes. $20.00

2003 Rosé of Cabernet Franc – The wine sees 36 hours on its skins and is almost a fluorescent salmon color with aromas of fresh strawberries which surprised me when I perceived green bell pepper on the entry. Crisp and fun with a touch of spice on the end. $16.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – Warm, spicy berry with rich, port-like aromas with some hint of earth through the mostly dark fruit. Smooth entry with a mineral mid-palate and an even, silky finish. $56.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon – Dark berries behind the warm, almost hot, bouquet. Soft, velvety entry blossoms and expands but then dries a bit in the middle with a tinny finish. Just needs time, that’s all. $52.00

2001 Elevage – A blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, with 18% Petite Verdot. Plummy and rich with tones of chocolate and blackberry that don’t deceive the mouth entry. Very bright in tannins with oak and cedar on the finish. $72.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – Dark, dark berry  Great opulent aromas that match the flavors, enhanced by a spicy plumminess. I would still give this wine another dozen-plus years. $100.00

I’m pretty enamored with history and art. Wineries that combine either history or art are an easy mark for my affection. Driving up and down the Silverado Trail every day, I glance often at Regusci Winery as their historic buildings have always intrigued me. Apparently part of the Ghost Winery trails, there is a building that lies back off the road, nestled behind some olive tress that was constructed in the 1878.

It was a gravity-method building that had been constructed and is thankfully one that is still standing to this day. It was in 1932 that Gaetano Regusci purchased the estate and along with grapes, also raised cattle and pigs to supplement the family’s income. The family continued to farm grapes, but it was Gaetano’s grandson, Jim, who re-established the estate as a winery.

Today, the historic building still greets visitors, as does several of the winery dogs including Scrappy, an accommodating Golden Lab who guards the parking lot. The tasting room is expansive and bright with natural light. The crew working the pouring counter are amiable, fun-loving, and informative. While there is a limited number of wines to taste, all are of exceptional quality.

2003 Chardonnay, Napa Valley – Classic citrus and tropical fruit bouquet with a crisp entry and balanced, even buttery mid-palate. Creamy vanilla finish. $28.00

2001 Regusci Estate Merlot – Some hints of green bell pepper but segues into dark, plummy, black raspberry. Vanilla, cherry and complex spices characteristics in the mouth feel with a bright, engaging finish. $40.00

2002 Regusci Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – Ultra ripe, port-like entry with subtle overtones of chocolate, boysenberry and other dark berries, and a touch of toasted vanilla. A complex, cherry finish that is rich and heady. $48.00

2002 Regusci Angelo’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This is a wine from the Stags Leap District which (thankfully for me), does not have those disdainful SLD characteristics I seem to continually experience; dirty, earthy, green bell pepper. The antithesis of this lies in this reserve offering. Fruit forward bouquet that includes dark berries as well as layered, complex tones of toffee and caramel. It enters the mouth with toasty, rugged qualities that include tobacco and leather, but heighten with dark cherry and more toffee on the finish. $95.00

Vino con Brio was my last stop on my day’s journey to Lodi. With barely six wineries under my belt for this region, I am already looking forward to heading back. Vino con Brio is a little more remotely located than some of the previous posts, but no less charming as it is also the location of Amoraso Inn & Gardens. Approaching the tasting room, there are four adjacent rooms across some charming landscaped gardens. The tasting room is small but charming with a few barstools available for tasting.

NV Amorosa Sparkling Wine – Stinky and harsh. Sadly undrinkable although my friend who travel led with me this day seemed to enjoy it. $12.99

2003 Sauvignon Blanc – Aged in 100% French oak, this dark golden offering is bright and fruity. Acidic mid-palate with a grassy, mineral finish. $15.99

2003 Pinot Grigio – With 10% Viognier. Engaging and warm with floral aromas. Both fruit and mineral qualities appear in the mouth feel that is layered with a long, creamy finish. $15.99

2002 Viognier – Sweet, floral bouquet enters the mouth with kiwi and green apple flavors. More mineral qualities on the finish. $16.99

2001 Pinotage – There are only ten wineries in the U.S. growing this grape more known from South African producers. Very bright and engaging, cherry and raspberry appears as part of the bouquet and initial taste. The mouthfeel also provides some hints of orange peel as the exciting, fruity mid-palate smooths out to an even, complex finish. $19.99

2001 Sangiovese – Explosion of raspberry candy subsides a bit to reveal some grassy aromas. Acidic and tannic, the fruit continues but in a rather sharp way. $15.99

2001 Syrah – Tight qualities in the nose of mineral, herbal, and green vegetable. Thin and vegetal in the entry with some fruit, but not quite enough. $15.99

2002 Vibrante Red Blend – A blend of 72.5% Syrah, 22.5% Mourvedre, 3% Grenache, and 2% Petite Sirah. Fabulously exciting aromas of cinnamon combined with dark chocolate-covered cherries. The candyshop essences continue into a petulant mouth feel of cocoa, dark cherry, and a spicy, engaging finish. $15.99

2001 Old Vine Zinfandel – I’m wondering how long this bottle was open as the characteristics were decidedly oxidized. Thin flavors and aromas of mushrooms and truffles in a long, earthy finish. $21.00

Vino con Brio ~ 12479 Locke Road ~ Lockeford ~ CA ~ 888-410-VINO

Michael-David Vineyards is a bit of an oddity in Lodi in that it resides in a building complex which includes not only a winery tasting room, but a roadside market and restaurant. I actually stumbled across Michael-David in the simple act of stopping for lunch — but found so much more.

The restaurant offers substantial fare including burgers, monster salads, and pretty fabulous soups (I recommend the Chicken Tortilla). In front of the building there were holding pens of baby chicks and baby lop-eared bunnies, both being sold for Easter.

The market has country-style munchie fare including gourmet crackers, condiments, and baked goods. A word on the baked goods — a large cabinet contains freshly-baked pies of exceptional quality. I went home with a Peach Boysenberry pie but a small, freestanding freezer sits nearby and pre-made, ready-to-bake frozen pies are also available. The market includes a small fruit and vegetable fridge which, during my visit, supplied amazingly inexpensive, baby white asparagus (for MY Easter dinner).

So, when you first walk into the buildling, on your far left you see the cafe, in the middle lies the market, and on the far right is the tasting bar for the winery. At first it seems sort of odd, but the tasting bar is extremely communal and lively with guests roaming between tasting wines, shopping, and perusing the menu. Many consumers have come across Michael-David’s 7 Deadly Zins, but I certainly didn’t realize the extent of the additional varietals that is produced by this Lodi winery:

2003 7 Heavenly Chards - Distinct crips green apple and apricot aromas easily predict the buttery mouth entry. Balanced, acidic mid-palate. $17.00

2004 Incognito Viognier – Overtly floral tones which segue to creamy, peach tones. Tangy flavors start to entice but some sharp, harsh acidic notes disappoint on the finish. $19.50

2001 Chenin Blanc – Very crisp and bright. A sweet, wet entry produces tropical flavors that are thin on the finish. $3.99

2003 Incognito Rouge – A blend of Syrah, Petite Verdot, Carignane, and Mourvedre. Excitingly mineral and herbal tones which are great fun. I didn’t care for the green bell pepper on the mouth entry which was initially thin, but blossomed to a more full, fruitier finish. $19.50

2002 Merlot – Thin, asparagus smells. Somewhat of a cheap cherry taste that is pale and thin with no finish whatsoever. $20.00

2003 7 Deadly Zins – Bright ruby color. Clove and cinnamon with plummy aromas. The spicy tastes which enter blossom and engages. Very nice, spicy finish. $17.00

2003 6th Sense Syrah – Perfumy qualities reminiscent of a dimestore quickly (and thankfully) subsides to produce elegant dried floral amoras. Dried cherry flavors with a dry mid-palate. Did I mention how dry it was? $17.00

2002 Earthquake Syrah – Port-like aromas with concentrated, chocolate-covered cherry qualities. More chocolate cherry in the flavors with a tight finish. Would benefit from decanting. $25.00

2000 Late Harvest Viognier - A golden yellow color anticipates a honeysuckle bouquet which quickly dimishes to show overtly ripe (almost moldy) stone fruit. Thin apricot flavors are immediately overwhelmed with floral qualities which almost seem artificial. $9.00

Michael-David Vineyards ~ 4580 West Highway 12 ~ Lodi ~ CA ~ 888-707-WINE